School
buses on acid. That’s the first thing that struck me upon arriving
in Panama. Those trusty yellow school buses that took me to elementary
school in the United States have found a new life in Panama as public
transportation buses, with the addition of psychedelic paint jobs.
Other than
those buses, it was hard to get the feel of being in a foreign country
at first because there was no currency exchange to deal with. Panama’s
national currency is the United States dollar, only they call it the
“balboa”. You can’t get any easier than that.
As soon
as we ventured out of Panama City), we began to see why Panama is
considered an undiscovered secret of Central America. We were immediately
struck by how friendly and welcoming Panamanians are. Cars stop to
let you cross the street, and most people we encountered offered a
friendly smile and a “buenas,” their colloquial greeting.
“Of
all the countries I visited in Central America,” a tourist who
had traveled the region told me before my trip, “Panama was
the best. There were no tourists-the country just hasn’t marketed
itself as a tourist destination.” The travel guide I bought
echoed those sentiments, and that’s what caught my interest.
We traveled
from Panama City to the city of David in the west, gateway to the
Chiriqui highlands, and took one of those old school busses to the
mountain town of Boquete. The next day we headed straight to the thermal
springs at Caldera where, for $1 paid to the caretaker, we soaked
to our hearts’ delight in natural outdoor springs before cooling
off in the river flowing just below. The area’s rivers are better
known for trout fishing and for excellent white water rafting.
After
such a relaxing first day, we were ready to tackle the Sendero los
Quetzales, the famous trail known for sightings of the resplendent
green and red-feathered quetzal. With our untrained eyes, we hardly
noticed any birds, and certainly not a quetzal. The strenuous hike
connecting Boquete with Cerro Punta traverses lush green jungle. The
well-trodden trail is easy to follow, so there is no need for a guide.
However, it begins and ends far from each town center-meaning a long
additional hike into town after the long trek. Also, since there is
no direct transportation connection between the two towns, a long
bus ride back to the city of David awaits you, and then another to
Boquete—adding nearly 3 hours to your day. There is talk of
building a road between the two towns to facilitate tourism, but most
Panamanians oppose this for environmental reasons.
Our muscles
aching, we decided against climbing up to the peak of Volcan Baru,
an extinct volcano, Panama’s highest point. Instead, we started
off our last day in Boquete on the Café Ruiz “coffee
roasting plant edu-tour” to learn how coffee is grown and ends
up in our mug at home. At $4 per person, this tour is a bargain compared
to the more expensive tours that also visit coffee plantations and
include “cuppings,” as coffee tastings are called. Just
up the road from Café Ruiz is the beautifully manicured “My
Garden is Your Garden” private garden-definitely worth a stroll,
and free at that.
Wandering
around Boquete for several days, I found the town rather run down.
This was surprising after reading tour book and online write-ups that
made it sound so quaint-a treasure hidden in this green paradise.
I finally discovered what they were talking about when I ventured
beyond the main street and town center. We found lovely houses surrounded
by flowers of all different colors-the stuff that attracts expatriates
from around the world to retire in Boquete. Visitors like myself arriving
by bus can easily find lodgings in town. With a car or more advance
planning, patience and budget, one can reach nicer accommodations,
offering cabins and rooms in pastoral settings.
In the
highlands, be sure to dress warm and, if you travel during what Panamanians
call the “green season” between May and September, be
prepared for rain. Our plastic rain suits saved us a few times. Don’t
make the mistake we made and leave your fleece vest at home-it can
get chilly, even in summer. And if you’re traveling by bus to
or from Panama City, that fleece will certainly come in handy. The
buses put their air conditioning on super freeze, making for a not
particularly enjoyable ride, despite the comfortable reclining seats
on the modern coach.
Our next
stop was El Valle de Anton where, as in Boquete, we were getting around
by bus and therefore found accommodation in what initially appears
to be the only options: Hotel Residential and Hotel Don Pepe, which
share the building with the excellent handicrafts stores in the center
of town. The hotels feature two of the town’s eateries: Restaurant
Mar de Plata and Restaurant Don Pepe, both serving up the same tasty
local fare, like hojaldres (fried dough), bollos (corn meal dough
boiled in leave), patacones (fried green plantains) and ceviche (raw
fish and onion marinated in lemon juice).
Only when
we rented bicycles did we begin to discover more accommodations, one
of which actually features two of El Valle’s attractions. At
the Hotel Campestre, butterflies in a myriad of colors escorted us
as we walked the well-marked, easy path to see El Valle’s famous
square trees. They should call it the “butterfly path,”
as they were more of an attraction than the trees. We had more success
finding the trees than we did spotting the golden frogs in the large
cage, the hotel’s other attraction. Only when we went to the
local zoo did we see the famous nearly-extinct black-spotted yellow
frogs.
Strapped
into a harness and hanging from cables, we soared through the forest
canopy 60 meters high above the Chorro El Macho waterfall looking
(unsuccessfully) for birds in the “Canopy Adventure”.
We also visited Pozos Termales, El Valle’s hot or, more accurate,
luke warm springs-a true bargain at one dollar admission cost. Visitors
cover themselves with therapeutic mud-one for the body and another
for the face, allow it to dry, then remove the mud in mineral water
showers before soaking in the pools.
El Valle
is best known for its Sunday market —a cross between a souvenir
handicrafts market, farmers market and plant nursery. Tour companies
in Panama City offer day tours from the capital to El Valle primarily
for the market, but it seemed to me that is should not be the primary
reason for going to El Valle, a place of natural charm and various
attractions.
Back in
Panama City, our first stop was the Miraflores Locks of the Panama
Canal, which now has a new visitors center complete with restaurants,
shops and a museum that tells the story of the Panama Canal. A brief
video provides more information, but nothing beats a live demonstration
of this engineering marvel. It is simply amazing to watch cruise ships
or massive cargo vessels stacked high with containers rising or falling
as they pass through the locks for their ride through the initial
or final portion of their 50 mile long, 8-10 hour transit through
the Canal.
On Saturdays,
for around $100, you can make a transit yourself on one of the boats
dedicated to transit tours. Partial transit go through 2 of the 3
lock sets and takes a full morning.
The Interoceanic
Canal Museum of Panama in the Old Quarter is also a good place to
learn about the Canal. In any event, be sure to hit one of the two.
At $2 per adult, the Interoceanic museum is a bargain, but everything
is in Spanish, so you’ll have to dish out $5 total (including
admission) for the English audio tour. You will want to visit Casco
Viejo anyway to enjoy its European flavor.
Although
we hiked the famous Quetzal Trail without seeing a quetzal, we hired
a private guide and went early morning birding at the crack of dawn
along Soberania National Park’s “Pipeline Road,”
known as one of the world’s finest areas for bird-watching.
What a treat it was to see so much wildlife. It was like watching
a nature channel special on birds; but I was there!
We concluded
our visit with a stroll and dinner on the Amdor causeway, the narrow
strip connecting four small islands at the entrance to the canal.
We took in great views of modern Panama City, with its tall buildings
reflecting on the water, just as we reflected on all we had seen and
done on our Panamanian vacation.