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VOL. 12 #14 -- Jun. 30 - Jul. 13, 2006
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The most Romantic spot in the city

Dozens of couples visit the area every evening.

One of the most romantic areas in Panama City is the General Esteban Huertas Promenade, best known as "Paseo Las Bóvedas". Perhaps millions of marriage proposals have been accepted (or rejected) there. Built in the early 20th center over the dungeons of an old colonial prison, the area is visited by couples of all ages after dusk, especially during Panama’s dry season (December-April), when a canopy created by entangled red, white and pink bougainvilleas blooms in full splendor.


The Las Bóvedas Promenade and the French Plaza.

It doesn’t matter if you are in love or not. Walking around the promenade is a lovely experience. Located at the tip of the Ancón peninsula, in San Felipe (the city’s old quarter), Las Bóvedas offers a breath-taking, panoramic view of the entire Bay of Panama, with the Amador Causeway to the south and the skyline of the modern city to the east. It is also possible to see as far as the coast of the province of Darién on a clear day.

During daylight hours, the promenade becomes a bazaar where Kuna Indians offer their colorful molas (reverse appliqué creations which have made the Kuna famous around the world.)


Las Bóvedas doubles as a little handicraft bazaar.
 

A not-so-romantic past

Many couples that visit the area will obviously ignore the two bronze plaques that describe the not-so-romantic past of what is now Las Bóvedas Promenade. One of them marks the spot where on the evening of November 3, 1903, Capt. Juan Chevalier, an officer stationed at what was then Cuartel de Chiriquí (a military fort overlooking the Bay of Panama), ordered the bombardment of a Colombian war ship which did not accept Panama’s independence from Colombia, proclaimed that day at the nearby Cathedral Plaza. The ship had fired first, killing a Chinese merchant and his donkey –the only casualties of Panama’s independence. The vessel, however, escaped unharmed.

The second plaque marks the spot where, in early 1903, Victoriano Lorenzo, a popular hero of the "War of the Thousand Days" (a civil war between Colombian political factions that also affected Panama, which was still part of Colombia back then) was executed by a firing squad.

The Las Bóvedas Promenade and the remnants of the Cuartel de Chiriquí became part of the French Plaza in 1924, when president Belisario Porras inaugurated a monument there as a tribute to the builders of the ill-fated French canal project of the late 1900’s.

 
 
 

El Caño Archaeological Park:

Discovering the mystery of Panama’s "Stonehenge"

The history behind the mounds and monoliths of El Caño is as intriguing as that of Stonehenge in England. However, a number of clues at Panama’s first in-situ museum have given archaeologists a partial picture of one of the most prosperous pre-Columbian, Native American cultures.

Covering an area of eight hectares, El Caño Archaeological Site (which bears the name of a tiny community located 176 km southwest of Panama City) was discovered by accident in the 1970’s when the tractors and bulldozers of a sugar cane milling company unearthed a number of pre-Hispanic artifacts. After almost a decade of excavations and studies, archaeologists discovered a large number of mounds surrounded by a circular row of huge stones. The mounds turned out to be Native American tombs of "middle-class" individuals, buried there between 500 and 1550 A.D.

El Caño is the second major archaeological discovery in the province of Coclé. The first one was at nearby Sitio Conte, when back in the 1920’s Richard Cooke, a U.S. adventurer, discovered a similar site surrounded by carved monoliths, most of which he unearthed and shipped to the Museum of Indian Culture in New York.


The people buried at El Caño were mostly middle-class individuals of the propsperous "Coclé culture".

Backed by the information provided by Spanish conquistadors in the area around the 16th century, historians have been able to conclude that the entire region corresponding to the present-day province of Coclé was an extremely prosperous Native American settlement with a history covering over five millennia.

As with other pre-Columbian cultures, members of the so-called "Coclé Culture" buried their dead with their belongings. In the case of middle-class residents (perhaps the leaders of the hunting, fishing and agricultural groups of the tribe), bodies were left to rot for a number of months and the bones were later placed in well-adorned ceramic urns, some of which are on display at El Caño’s museum. The gold ornaments and artifacts are on display at Panama City’s Anthropology Museum, on Plaza Cinco de Mayo.

Archaeologists now know that the mounds helped to preserve the bodies in a flood-prone environment. The monoliths, however, are the source of much speculation. Although there is strong evidence they were part of a Pre-Columbian sport, others believe it was a religious-ceremonial site. The real mystery is how those huge stones, some of which weigh several tons, were transported there, since similar stones are only found in the Central Cordillera mountain range, many kilometers away.

El Caño Archaeological Park opens Tuesday to Saturday, from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., and from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. on Sundays. It is closed on Mondays and holidays. Admittance is $1.00 for adults. Retirees, students (with ID) and children pay 25 cents. For more information, call: (507) 987-9352

 
 



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