The city's Old Quarter
has seen many restaurants come and go....mostly because the would-be
restauranteur relied on the ambience of the area rather than offering
fine food at an affordable price. In many cases, the locale is stunning
and the food just passable; hence the large turnover rate. However,
I would be willing to bet that CASA SURIS will beat the odds.
The restaurant is located
on 2nd Street at the Galeria San Felipe (just down from the old
Union Club). The menu is eclectic and not huge, which means the
kitchen does not attempt to be all things to all people and can
focus on just the items offered and can guarantee freshness. And
the prices range from salads in the $2.50 to $4.00 range, appetizers
from $5.00 to $9.00, etc.
My crew immediately voted
the ceviche the "best ever". Same goes for the large portion
of Steamed Clams served with broth so rich and garlicky you could
make a meal of just that and several pieces of bread to sop it up
with. The Shrimp Cocktail was very good, although the shrimp were
just a bit watery. That was compensated by the cocktail sauce served
with them...tangy with horseradish and a biting counterpoint to
the fresh shrimp meat.

View of the restaurant’s terrace, bordered by the
walls of the Flat Arch, a colonial monument.
Then we moved on to the
meat dishes. Ordering a steak at Casa Surís may seem expensive...until
you check the size being served; $23.00 for a tender Bone-in Prime
Rib...but it weighs 24 oz. ($18.50 for a 16 oz.). Or $29.00 for
a Porterhouse Steak...which tops out at an astounding 32 oz.! The
meat is tender and the taste is exactly what a steak lovers seeks...juicy
and delicious meat cooked to perfection.
The
Paella ($9.00 per person) was packed with seafood and had a nice
flavor, but was a bit dry for my taste. The more dry the rice mixture
gets, the more it exagerrates the seafood and the delicate balance
between the two is lost. It was good, but not a standout dish. Next
was a Roasted Half Chicken that lifted this seemingly humble entree
to dizzying heights. Crisp skin, tender & moist meat, all topped
with perfectly caramelized onions. While this dish is presented
as a single-serving entree for $9.00, it is enough to feed two people.
However, after one bite of this wonderful blend of flavors, you
may not want to share. Creamed Spinach and a large platter of House
Potatoes were perfect side dishes.
Just when I thought
I couldn’t possibly sample another entree, a large filet of
Red Snapper In Lemon Butter Sauce was brought to the table. "One
small bite", I thought, "and we will be on our way".
Half an hour and several bites later I decided that if this restaurant
became popular for no other reason, this incredible dish could be
it. The outer coating was crisp and rich with lemony flavor, while
the moist buttery flesh seemed to melt in your mouth...the combination
of all these flavors was astonishing. And this from someone not
overly fond of fish.

Mr. Richard Tapanes, owner of Casa Surís, accompanied
by Annabel Espino, an executive of Compañía Novartis.
Sated by an excellent
meal, I couldn’t pass up the authentic New York City style
cheesecake. Forget the fruit toppings...this rich and creamy cheesecake
is possibly the best in Panamá and was a perfect rich close
to an exciting dining experience.
This 60-seat destination
restaurant has only been open a couple of months and is still a
"work in progress", in that it is still being decorated,
but the ambience is already there and it will be interesting to
see how it grows and matures. Food enthusiasts are starting to discover
it and the ridiculously affordable lunches served Monday through
Friday from 11:30 am will ensure others will follow. Casa Surís
deserves success in an area where others have failed if only because
its owner is dedicated to one simple mantra...excellent food at
a fair price. No lavish interior or 30 page menu can beat that.