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VOL. 12 #26 -- Dec./ Dic. 15-28, 2006
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Places

 

Taj Majal:

A shrine of Hindu flavors


The restaurant, on Calle 42 Bella Vista.

Panama City’s culinary center, which until recently encompassed the proximity of Calle Uruguay, has been rapidly expanding westward in the last couple of years to include most of Calle 42, Bella Vista, where many of the neighborhood’s old Spanish-style mansions have been transformed into some of the city’s most popular restaurants. One of them is Taj Majal, which, as its name suggests, is a little shrine where guests pay homage to exquisite dishes originating in northern India.

The restaurant is owned by David Mander, A Canadian-born descendant of Punjabi immigrants, he first relocated in Costa Rica to establish a regional air taxi service. Becoming acquainted with Panama’s culinary circles during his numerous visits, he decided to trade his aircraft for the tandor ovens of his forefathers, establishing two restaurants, one in San José, Costa Rica, and the other in the Panamanian capital.


100% Hindi décor.

David describes himself as a self-taught cook, although he leaves all of the "heavy-duty" work to his chefs, who prepare generous portions of Tikka, (chunks of boneless chicken cooked in the tandor oven, and covered with a spicy, tomato and onion sauce), lamb dishes and other specialties.

Taj Majal is a masterfully-decorated corner of India, where the friendly staff of waitresses greets visitors in folk attire. With capacity for some 60 patrons, the restaurant is private and comfortable and offers an, indoor salon for parties and an outdoor terrace for evening meals. Large TV screens offer music videos of popular traditional and pop-music Indian stars.

For reservations and more information, call: 225-7844.

 
 
 

Río Alto Suites:

A hotel for those that "hate hotels"

By David Dell.

In the 1960’s Hollywood stars William Holden and John Wayne regularly visited Boquete. At that time this idyllic mountain getaway was well off the beaten track and celebrity visitors could enjoy the peace, tranquility and eternal spring climate without disturbance.

Starting in 1998 things started to change. Arguably the Boquete of today has become the premier resort destination of all of Panama. Does that mean that the beauty and tranquility that the Hollywood stars thought so wonderful has gone? Not all.


Peace and beauty in the mountains of Chiriquí.

If you want to stay in a new, boutique style hotel in one of Boquete’s upscale neighborhoods then welcome to Rio Alto Suites.

This unique hotel is for those people "who hate hotels." If you are tired of the same old square box rooms, the same identical boxy doors and windows – give your traveling spirit a rest from the ordinary and treat your senses to something wonderfully different.

Rio Alto Suites has four, two story cabanas. Every suite has Direct TV, DVD/CD player, microwave, refrigerator, coffee maker, stove, TV, Hot water and finally the absolute necessity – hi-speed wireless internet. Oh! and did I mention, all of the doors have rounded wooden arches.

Gardens with a volcano view
The gardens are a maze of field-stone walls with thousands of multi-colored plants, including coffee bushes and orange and banana trees. The only sounds that you can hear are from the courtyard fountain and the trout-bearing Chiriqui River that cascades just feet away from one of the garden patios.


The "King" of Río Alto, Ken Taylor.

The owner of Rio Alto suites, Ken Taylor, is a character right out of Hollywood itself. This six-foot-tall Texan has survived five heart by-pass surgeries. As Ken and I sat in the lobby he puffed away at an eight inch long, Cohiba Monte Cristo. He admits to a seven-a-day habit of these $8 Cuban Cigars. Despite his near death two year earlier, Ken is determined to live his life, as long as he can – his way.

Meeting John Wayne
I mentioned that the legendary John Wayne was seen regularly in these parts and Ken tells me that he met the legend when he was building the "John Wayne Marina," in Sequim, Washington.

In my mind’s eye there was a scenario that might have unfolded some years earlier: there would have been Ken, John Wayne and William Holden puffing away on Monte Cristo’s and consuming large quantities of Kentucky Bourbon as they loudly put the world to rights, each in their own inimitable way. Today Ken has forsaken the demon drink, but the cigars, he assures me, are going to stay.

Excellent value for the money.


Unique Comfort

Affordable
Considering the amenities that Rio Alto Suites has to offer the prices are very reasonable. The smaller of the suites can be rented for just $75 a night plus tax.

Facilities to prepare meals in your suites, assures you ideal and affordable holiday accommodation.

Ken is king of his castle, but that is only because the real boss - the Queen, (Margret, his Columbian born wife ) allows him that privilege. Ken will also admit that the reason the place runs so well is because of the invaluable efforts of his manager; Alvaro.

Ken has the yearning to travel. Life has taught him to seize the moment while he still can. For the right individual he would consider selling this peaceful little mountain Shangri-La. That would be something you would have to discuss with the legend himself.

As you talk and the cigar smoke swirls you might just make out the vision of another tall, tough-talking, American dressed as a cowboy- but wait a minute, that’s pure fantasy and this is just a hotel – or is it?

For reservations, please email: boqueteparadise@aol.com or contact: (507) 6-677-5699 - (507)-720-2554

 
 
 

Casa Surís:

The new culinary promise of the Old Quarter

Casa Surís

2nd Street, Galeria San Felipe, Casco Viejo, 228-7019
Closed Sunday

Rating:
Poor
Fair
Good
Excellent
Highly Recommended

The city's Old Quarter has seen many restaurants come and go....mostly because the would-be restauranteur relied on the ambience of the area rather than offering fine food at an affordable price. In many cases, the locale is stunning and the food just passable; hence the large turnover rate. However, I would be willing to bet that CASA SURIS will beat the odds.

The restaurant is located on 2nd Street at the Galeria San Felipe (just down from the old Union Club). The menu is eclectic and not huge, which means the kitchen does not attempt to be all things to all people and can focus on just the items offered and can guarantee freshness. And the prices range from salads in the $2.50 to $4.00 range, appetizers from $5.00 to $9.00, etc.

My crew immediately voted the ceviche the "best ever". Same goes for the large portion of Steamed Clams served with broth so rich and garlicky you could make a meal of just that and several pieces of bread to sop it up with. The Shrimp Cocktail was very good, although the shrimp were just a bit watery. That was compensated by the cocktail sauce served with them...tangy with horseradish and a biting counterpoint to the fresh shrimp meat.


View of the restaurant’s terrace, bordered by the walls of the Flat Arch, a colonial monument.

Then we moved on to the meat dishes. Ordering a steak at Casa Surís may seem expensive...until you check the size being served; $23.00 for a tender Bone-in Prime Rib...but it weighs 24 oz. ($18.50 for a 16 oz.). Or $29.00 for a Porterhouse Steak...which tops out at an astounding 32 oz.! The meat is tender and the taste is exactly what a steak lovers seeks...juicy and delicious meat cooked to perfection.

The Paella ($9.00 per person) was packed with seafood and had a nice flavor, but was a bit dry for my taste. The more dry the rice mixture gets, the more it exagerrates the seafood and the delicate balance between the two is lost. It was good, but not a standout dish. Next was a Roasted Half Chicken that lifted this seemingly humble entree to dizzying heights. Crisp skin, tender & moist meat, all topped with perfectly caramelized onions. While this dish is presented as a single-serving entree for $9.00, it is enough to feed two people. However, after one bite of this wonderful blend of flavors, you may not want to share. Creamed Spinach and a large platter of House Potatoes were perfect side dishes.

Just when I thought I couldn’t possibly sample another entree, a large filet of Red Snapper In Lemon Butter Sauce was brought to the table. "One small bite", I thought, "and we will be on our way". Half an hour and several bites later I decided that if this restaurant became popular for no other reason, this incredible dish could be it. The outer coating was crisp and rich with lemony flavor, while the moist buttery flesh seemed to melt in your mouth...the combination of all these flavors was astonishing. And this from someone not overly fond of fish.


Mr. Richard Tapanes, owner of Casa Surís, accompanied by Annabel Espino, an executive of Compañía Novartis.

Sated by an excellent meal, I couldn’t pass up the authentic New York City style cheesecake. Forget the fruit toppings...this rich and creamy cheesecake is possibly the best in Panamá and was a perfect rich close to an exciting dining experience.

This 60-seat destination restaurant has only been open a couple of months and is still a "work in progress", in that it is still being decorated, but the ambience is already there and it will be interesting to see how it grows and matures. Food enthusiasts are starting to discover it and the ridiculously affordable lunches served Monday through Friday from 11:30 am will ensure others will follow. Casa Surís deserves success in an area where others have failed if only because its owner is dedicated to one simple mantra...excellent food at a fair price. No lavish interior or 30 page menu can beat that.

 
 



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