Steve Arthur drives his black Toyota sport utility
vehicle past the nine-hole golf course, the health spa and the church
of his new neighborhood. The 1966 Amphitheater High School graduate
points to the plot where his 3,000-square-foot home will be built.
"In
any other place in the world, this is a national park," he says,
indicating the lush mountains enfolding a cluster of quarter-million-dollar
homes in the gated community of Valle Escondido in Boquete, Panama.
In mile-high
Boquete, the tropics meet the mountains to create a landscape so lush
even the air seems green. The weather is usually delightful. It's
a far cry from Willcox, where Arthur grew up.
Last year,
Arthur, a former TV producer, and his wife, Taylor, moved to Valle
Escondido, the first of a growing number of gated retirement communities
cropping up in the highlands and islands of Panama, a Central American
country less than a third the size of Arizona.
Lured
by Panama's natural beauty and foreigner-friendly tax system, Arthur
and thousands of Americans like him are pumping hundreds of millions
of dollars into the country of 3 million people.
In 1995,
to encourage tourism as the departure of the U.S. military neared,
Panama passed Law 8, exempting tourism-related businesses from taxes
on profits and property. Second homes subleased part of the year and
retirement communities such as Valle Escondido all fall under Panama's
broad tourism umbrella.
Since
the U.S. military left in 1999 after the turnover of the Panama Canal,
Panama has been scrambling to find its place in the 21st century and
diversify its economy beyond activities traditionally centered on
the canal, such as its international banking center and the duty-free
zone.
Tourism
is one option. There is also something called "residential tourism"
- communities such as Valle Escondido. Boquete, a former coffee-producing
town of 18,000, has been ranked among the best places in the world
to retire by Modern Maturity and International Living magazines.
At the
restaurant in the town center, Arthur sips a Diet Coke. "You
come past those gates, and this place is like Disneyland," he
says.
Retirees
have options
Those who eschew the gated-community ethic have other options.
Erland Hinsch, who speaks in a drawl combining his native Denmark
with South Carolina, is building a home with his Panamanian wife.
Hinsch is a retired textile engineer - a business faltering in the
United States as textile production moves overseas.
Hinsch
is hooked on the town's tranquil setting. He drives his 1985 Land
Rover over the bumpy dirt road just as a drizzling rain begins to
fall in Boquete. Called bajareques, these daily refreshing rains cleanse
the town and leave it looking like a living, breathing postcard of
pristine mountaintops rising into the low-lying clouds.
"You
can live well here for $1,000 a month. You can have maids, cars, a
house - you can't even blink for that in the United States,"
Hinsch says.
Hinsch
is supervising construction of a two-story, 2,800-square-foot home,
contracting Panamanians for the construction. The cost? About $45,000.
Of the
gated communities, he says, "It is just way too American. You
don't come down here to live like an American; you adapt to Panama's
culture."