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VOL. 13 #10 -- May 4 - 17, 2007
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Isthmian Update

Some of the news in Panama

Panama To Get "Brit" training
Panama has asked the Parliamentary Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, Lord David Triesman, for his cooperation in the training of Panamanians for work on the enlargement of the Canal and for learning the English language.

German delegation
The German chancellor, Frank W. Steinmer, visited Panama as part of his tour of Latin America. The delegation of businessmen that accompanied him in the country to meet with the government and the local private sector. Another group will come in September to speak of future investments.

Coastal Strip
The coastal strip that is planned for Avenida Balboa, does not require traffic overpasses or level crossings, according to the Mexican specialist in highway administration, Francisco Mier. The specialist was invited to Panama by the architects Carlos A. Clement and Alvaro Gonzalez Clare, developers of one of the three proposals for the coastal strip.

Real Estate Boom Expands
The real estate development has extended to the interior of the country with the construction of tourist projects. Since 2004 until last year some 52 projects associated with tourism were constructed in different parts of the country, with emphasis on the area of Boquete, in the province of Chiriqui.

Continental Energy Plan
Businessmen of the hemisphere will meet in the 37th General Assembly of the Organization of American States (OAS) next June to discuss the role of public-private alliances in an energy plan for the continent, says the First Vice-president and Foreign Minister of Panama, Samuel Lewis Navarro.

Foreign investment
In 2006 Panama received US$2,600-million in Direct Foreign Investment (IDE), one of the highest received by a Latin American country, averaging some US$780 per inhabitant. Of the total received, the general licence banks and the Colon Free Zone received the majority, with US$1.666-million and US$384-million respectively.

Tough on Clime
There will be no waiting period for the implementation of the Government Bill that increases the penalties up to 30 years for adults who commit crimes with "cruelty and gravity". It will take effect immediately it is sanctioned by the Executive and published in the Official Gazette.

New Road to Darien
The road project of the Inter-American highway will arrive in the town of Yaviza, finally uniting the province of Darién with the rest of the country, says the Minister of Public Works, Benjamín Colamarco. According to this official, the this important communication link will begin in Bayano, continue to Tortí, then to Metetí and Canglón, until finally reaching Yaviza.

Fuel costs hit fishermen
Increasing fuel costs and the incursion of industrial shrimp fishing ships on the banks off the coasts of Panama has meant diminishing income for Panamanian fishermen says Osvaldo Grenald, president of the Association of United Craft Fishermen of the Port of Pedregal (APAIPP).

Environmental Conference
The First Hemispherical Conference on Port Environmental Protection, organized by the Panama Maritime Authority (AMP) and the Inter-American Commission of Ports (CIP) of the Organization of American States (OAS) was held in Panama.

Globe Trotting
The First Vice-president of Panama and Foreign Minister, Samuel Lewis Navarro made an offical visit to several European capital, Paris, Madrid, Rome and Moscow. The tour wey to fortify diplomatic relations and to sign agreements of cooperation, technical training and civic safety.

French politicians and businessmen expressed their interest in participating in the enlargement of the Canal.

Transfer of taxes called for
The Mayor of Panama City and president of the Association of Municipalities of Panama, Juan Carlos Navarro, has asked for the immediate transfer of resources originating from the real estate tax to the municipalities. "The mayors and representatives have to become collectors and administrators of our resources and stop depending of the central government if we want to promote a genuine decentralization", emphasized Navarro.

Dolphin Saga I.
"We cannot permit the capture of a single dolphin in Panamanian waters if we aspire to live in a decent and integral country that believes in the sustainable development and in the conservation of the natural inheritance", said the Mayor od Panama City, Juan Carlos Navarro, during the visit to Panama of Richard O’Barry, a world specialist in marine mammals.

Dolphin Saga II
Richard O’Barry, the former dolphin trainer of the popular television series "Pinball Machine", said that with the construction of a dolphinarium in Panama, the American company Ocean Embassy intends to capture the animals for "marketing".

Dolphin Saga III
The Ocean Embassy Panama presented a complaint to the Attorney General’s Office for the alleged crime of prejudicing their honor against the lawyer of the Humanitas Foundation, Celma Moncada. Executives of the company denied that they will traffic dolphins and they indicated that their profits would only be generated from the visit of tourists to their water park, destined to the conservation and investigation of this animal species.

Book Launch
The Colombian writer Juan Gabriel Vasquez launched his novel "The Secret History of Costaguana" in which for him one of the great adventures in Latin America was the construction of the Panama Canal.

Statistics Inflated
A new report from the US Department of Justice’s Inspector General says, basically, that all the US terrorism statistics since 9/11 --- arrests, convictions, etc., -- have been grossly inflated.

Farm Projects paying off
Three farm projects initiated by the Union of Farm Producers of Chiriquí are already producting fruit benefiting more than 6,000 producers in 12 districts of the province and the Ngobe Buglé Indian Region. The resources were initially donated by the Social investment Fund (FIS) to promote the production of chili tabasco, banana and papaya.

Compensation approved
The members of the Budget Commision of the National Assembly have approved an additional credit of US$6.2 million as part of the financial compensation that the Panamanian State will pay to relatives of those who died from poisoning with dietilenglicol. This credit covers some 119 patients and relatives of those who have died from the so-called Syndrome of Sharp Kidney Failure (SIRA).

Bus Fare increase Demanded
A increase of US 10 cents in the suburban route fares, and five for the "red devils" of the capital, and subsidies on the price of fuel, are part of demands from bus operators.

Bus Operators subsidized
The government showed over the past two years that it is willing to put up the money necessary to maintain the low fares of public transportation. This is shown by the figures of the Ministry of Economy and Finances (MEF), that indicate that the State paid US$28 million in subsidies on the price of fuel for the bus operators between 2005 and 2006.

Tourism master plan
This year, the Panamanian Institute of Tourism (IPAT) will produce a master plan for tourism with the intention of seeking market niches. To draw up the tourist master plan,IPAT already counts on the approval of US$370,000 from the Inter-American Development Bank (BID), for the unrefundable financing of the project. The UN Development Program will contribute another US$106,000 and IPAT US$100,000.

Canal Charges Increased
The Cabinet has approved the increase of 10.2 percent in the tolls of the Panama Canal that will come tinto effect on July 1. From that date, users of the waterway will pay US$54 for each container of 20 feet, compared with the present US$40.

 
 
 

Rediscovering Panama’s "lost lakes"

By Luis Rodríguez and Gabriel Leonard

As a country flexing its tourism muscle, Panama is in the process of discovering itself. Probably the vast majority of its attractions are still locations "off the beaten path," but the country has shed a number of "myths" concerning the definition of "tourist attraction."

One of these myths is the "absence of volcanic lakes," which partly results from the county’s effort to promote itself as a destination free of tremors and eruptions. Nature however, can't be ignored. Although it's true that all of Panama’s 50 hidden volcanoes are dormant, the natural result of these ancient formations –the lakes—are also present in Panama, although not as large as Lake Nicaragua.


View of one of the Volcan lakes, high in the Chiriquí mountains, near the provincial border of Bocas del Toro.

One of them is the Laguna de San Carlos, a small, but beautiful lake located between the mountains of Sorá, and El Valle de Antón, which has all it takes for a major tourist development: picturesque mountain vistas, year-round cool weather and proximity to major population areas (less than two hours from Panama City.) However, La Laguna is virtually unknown to the average Panamanian, despite the fact that hundreds of locals and tourists travel within a short distance of the lake on their way to nearby beaches.

A narrow, but good asphalt road ends less than a mile from the lake, which can still be reached by SUVs during the rainy season (April-December.)

Also ignored are Lagunas de Volcán, in the province of Chiriquí, two beautiful lakes which comprise the fifth largest mountain water eco-system in Central America and Mexico. They are located in an ancient crater of Volcán Barú (Panamá’s largest volcano,) between 1350 and 1360 meters above sea level. Surrounded by verdant hills, the lakes’ maximum depth ranges between 3.5 and 9.58 meters.

Although they are located close to a well-known ancient petroglyph site, the lakes are only known to the rural residents of the area. The road is presently in a bad state. Nearby are the towns of Boquete, Cerro Punta and Volcán, which have attracted hundreds of North American and European expats in recent years.

 
 
 

New Club House rising from the ashes


A view from the clubhouse.

Not quite a phoenix, but certainly a welcome new building is rising from the ashes of the old Balboa Yacht Club, on the edge of the Canal. The old BYC, which also housed an American Legion, was destroyed by fire in 1999.

Since then members have been "camping out" under a temporary roof, with the sides open to the elements. That downside has been balanced by an outstanding view of the nearby Bridge of the Americas, the ships passing to and from the canal and, of course, the yachts lying at anchor.

The new two storey club house is expected to be completed early next year, and will have a downstairs bar and restaurant, and a social area and bar upstairs. Phase II calls for a 300 square meter restaurant, still preserving the view of the bridge and the 126 moorings for members and visitors.


Yacht under repair.

The PBC is also providing a temporary home for Trans Iberica supply ships, which deliver food to ships waiting to enter the canal.

Even with its camping-out facilities, which did not stop members celebrating the midnight arrival of 2007, the club provides a perfect place for sipping a cool one while watching the sun to set over the moored yachts. Drop by and see for yourself.

The Club is near the Country Inn and TGIF (Thank God It’s Friday) in Amador, and a perfect starting place for a walk or bicycle ride along the Causeway.

 
 
 

Golden Frogs born at Hotel Campestre

Hotel Campestre, a long-established country lodge in the mountain resort community of El Valle de Antón, recently announced the birth of the first Golden Frogs born in captivity in Panama. The birth of the specimens, which took place at the hotel's premises, is the result of a special agrement between Hotel Campestre and the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI) signed in the year 2000.

The effort, which also included the Houston Zoo, Panama's National Environmental Authority (ANAM) and private scientists, seeks to reduce the effects of a dangerous fungus which has affected the reproduction of this endangered species in recent years.

Endemic to the mountains of the western sector of the provinces of Panama and Coclé, the Golden Frog is a true symbol of the country, photographed and painted by artists and tourists, and studied by well-known scientists from around the world. It is one of the icons of El Valle, a tourist resort community located two hours west of Panama City.

Its rarity once inspired author Mark Twain, but has also tempted illegal hunters to damage its habitat in order to sell the frogs in high-end foreign markets.

The first specimens of the Golden Frog born in captivity took place at the Houston Zoo two years ago.

 
 
 

Sir Richard made the “Top 100” of two lists


Sir Richard Branson.

The stormy petrel of British financial circles, Sir Richard Branson was listed in 2002 by the BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation as number 85 of the "100 Greatest Britons". Not bad when you know the list contained the likes of Winston Churchill.

On the other hand a year later he was listed number 86 a year later, by a rival station on the list of "100 Worst Britons."

But since his first entry into the world of commerce at 16, he has been a character to follow, and his entrepreneurial achievements led to his being knighted by Queen Elizabeth II, and he is a renowned philanthropist.

He is best known for his Virgin brand of over 30 companies. He first introduced the name with Virgin Records, then built a chain of Virgin Megastores and during the 1980’s set up Virgin Atlantic Airways.

He is a born-again environmental crusader, and earlier this year committed a $25 prize for a practical plan to reduce greenhouse gases in the atmosphere and global warming. Known as the Virgin EarthChallenge, Branson will judge the contest along with five other environmental campaigners, including former U.S. Vice president Al Gore.

 
 
 

The Hometown Visitor Part 1.

No itinerary, Surfing, Fishing and a home cooked meal fit for a king

By Vito Cortese

When my good buddy from the States e-mailed and said he’d be down in a week for a six day visit , I was ecstatic. My wife, kids and I moved down here five months ago from the same hometown as him to run a construction company and since Retz (or Ryan as some people call him) was an engineer, I figured we’d have some blissful, geeky conversations about where our two professions overlap.

Then it really hit me… how exciting can a dirt road and some development plan really be? I’d need to come up with a plan to show Ryan why we moved down here. One of our favorite reasons we love Panama is because of all the wonderful destinations that are so near. We jotted down a list of our favorite Panama locations and cross-referenced it with the sweet outdoor activities that Retz and I both enjoy, and the itinerary fell into place like a freshly cut river down a soft dirt road after an afternoon’s rain. In other words, we didn’t have a plan until after he arrived. Itineraries are so boring and rigid anyway so why place those kinds of restrictions on a friend visiting. Besides, itineraries just aren’t my style.

He arrived on a Tuesday afternoon. I was an hour late arriving at the airport to pick him up so I was a bit worried he might be waiting. But as is typical with afternoon arrivals, his plane was the last of four and I ended up waiting a bit. Good thing we didn’t have an itinerary or we’d already be an hour behind before he even arrived.! Anyway, that’s enough babbling now back to the story.

Tuesday was nothing spectacular. We spent the afternoon checking out site Parque Silvestre, grocery shopping at our favorite grocery store Riba Smith, and catching up with the family after arriving home. We also spent a few minutes on what the plans should be for the next couple of days.

Head out to Pedasi at the tip of Los Santos on the Pacific side of the isthmus for some fishing and surfing or drive around Panama City watching the skyline change before our eyes. Needless to say, but I’ll say it anyway… it was an easy decision.

We set off early Wednesday morning for Pedasi. It’s about a five hour drive, or three and a half depending on the drive., Shortly after departing the city, we called an old friend of the family, Jose Goldner. He just happened to be living out in Los Santos so he gave us the inside line. He hooked us up with a fantastic outfit called Pedasi Fishing and the location of two available surfboards that we could borrow.

A pit stop in Chitre allowed us to go on a quick tour the Pedasi Fishing factory.

They go through an obscene tonnage of ice a day and have huge fish all over. No surprise to anyone with an imagination, but it was very interesting.

Around 2:00 in the afternoon we arrived in Pedasi. Found the surfboards, fitted them just like a jigsaw puzzle into the car and drove immediately another half a hour to one of the most remote Surf Beaches I’ve ever seen. No cell service, gas stations or McDonald’s, just a small cantina, some hammocks and a few campsites.

Retz was like a kid who just found the new bike behind the Christmas tree. He was quick to change his clothes, grab his surfboard and paddle out. and I followewd suit.

We hung out for a bit just peacefully sitting on our boards, chit-chatting and waiting for the right set to come along. "Surfing is very social" Retz pointed out after sharing the peace of the remote ocean with the company of good friends.

After an exhausting six hour session it was time to head back to the hotel. With a TV (rabbit ears included), clean towels, clean sheets and a safe place to lay our head and only ten bucks a night, you can’t go wrong.

The next morning we awoke at 5:30 and met our boat Captain, Avidel, on the beach at 6.00. He had everything prepared and waiting when we arrived.

We headed out and stopped about five miles from shore to set up our reels and lines.

Since niether Retz nor I had never done any sea fishing before, Avidel was instrumental in getting us ready. After a few minutes we tossed our hooks in the water and began to trawl.

It only took about fifteen minutes before the buzz-whirl-zip sound of Ryan’s reel set off some excitement. He had something on his hook and began to reel it in. After a large fight, we were thrilled to see a 23-pound tuna dangling from his hook.

That happened four more times in total for both of us. I’m not going to say who caught more, but the truth of the matter is it wasn’t important because we shared the catch in the end.

If you’re interested in some of the best fishing Panama has to offer, I would highly recommend Pedasi Fishing. Their website is www.pedasifishing.com.

It only took about fifteen minutes before the buzz-whirl-zip sound of Ryan’s reel set off some excitement. He had something on his hook and began to reel it in. After a large fight, we were thrilled to see a 23-pound tuna dangling from his hook.

When we returned to shore, Avidel took us to a great little restaurant where the owner was in the back cooking. We brought in the filleted fish and asked her to prepare us something delicious. She didn’t let us down. Lightly breaded with garlic, peppers and some secret local ingredients.it was the most delightful tuna I’ve ever eaten.

As it turns out, the owner lived in Florida for a bit and spoke English very well. A definite stop for anyone traveling out the Pedasi way.

After the gourmet lunch, we headed back home to Panama City. After all, Retz had only four days left and we had to jam pack those few days left with a fantastic night out in the city, San Blas, Kite Surfing at Punta Chame, a private air tour over Portobelo and the Canal. Good thing we didn’t have an itinerary to hold us back.

The last four days of his adventure will have to wait until the next edition. Until then, try to make it out to Pedasi for some rest, relaxation, surfing and fishing.

A fabulous weekend by anyone’s standards.

 
 
 

"Britain’s best" builds in Boquete

By David Dell

Paul and Jenny Saban know a thing or two about building beautiful gardens. In their native Britain in 2000, their ornamental garden with its myriad ponds and fountains was voted, "Pond of the year," by "Koi Ponds & Gardens Magazine." That is quite an achievement considering that half of the people in Britain seem to spend their time transforming their back gardens into an aquatic paradise.


Saban house.

The Sabans have been living in Boquete for the past two years and have brought their considerable landscaping and animal–care skills to bear on a project they call "Paradise Gardens."

Panama’s premium animal rescue center.
This will be much more than a beautiful place to visit, because this will be Panama’s premium animal rescue center. Already the Sabans have saved a host of animals ranging from a Pygmy Owl to a Margay (medium sized jungle cat) – an animal that was confined in so small a space, that its tail is permanently crooked. Paul and Jenny both lament that there is a "Lack of education on how to look after animals." Jenny pointed out some yellow "canaries" in a cage on the verandah – except these weren’t yellow or canaries, they were ordinary green parrots that had been bleached, and then dyed, so they could be sold for more money. Part of the work at the gardens will be in instructing people on how best to care for and keep Panama’s fabulous fauna.

Paradise Gardens has a small entrance fee of $5, to help in the upkeep of the gardens and to ensure that the rescue and rehabilitation services continue.

The gardens feature several large aviaries with a profusion of exotic and brilliantly colored birds, including parrots, parakeets, toucans, cockatoos, and macaws from South America and from as far away as the Mollucan Islands. There will be no shortage of the four-legged animal kind as two white-faced Capuchin monkeys are the newest additions in the animal enclosure. As we stood on the front porch of the main house, Jenny showed us a kinkajou. This is another rescued animal that has integrated well with humans. "Holy cow!" I exclaimed as the demure little creature opened its mouth and out came a 5-inch tongue. Nearby was another similar looking creature. At first I thought this was another kinkajou but Jenny corrected me, "No, this is a Cacomistle." I must admit having her write the name down, as this was another "new" animal for me.

For twenty years in England, Paul and Jenny kept exotic birds. If you watch Paul interact with his many feathered friends, you can observe –a complete bonding of animal with human, in a mutual embrace of affection, caring and complete trust.

Jenny loves to garden - and it shows. She admits it’s her passion and the profusion of multi-colored blooms that decorate the grounds is evidence of her considerable skills, not to mention her obvious green thumb. Her crowning glory may well be the Japanese water-garden and pavilion, that is in the finishing stages of construction.

Panama’s biggest butterfly house.
Work is well along on constructing the biggest butterfly house in the country. This will be an eye-opener for many. I recall some years ago, seeing some chrysalis or pupae (butterfly eggs) and was astonished to see, what appeared to be, droplets of pure gold, silver and a pearl. That is one thing about nature; the more you delve into it, the more amazing it becomes.

Wheelchair accessible.
The wonders of nature should be available to everyone, and bless their heart’s the Saban’s, at some cost, have made their garden fully wheelchair-accessible. Further to this, in the future, there are plans to build some care-free facilities on the grounds. So people can spend their retirement years in one of the most beautiful spots on earth.

The final question I posed to Paul and Jenny Saban was, "Why are you doing this?" Their answer was simple, they wanted to share what they have. Paul’s many hard-working years as a Master Stonemason in England provided his family with a good life. Now he and his wife will in turn provide many hours of enjoyment and education for the people of Panama. The animals of Panama are slowly beginning to realize that some really nice people have moved into their neighborhood.

 
 
 

Finding a Real Estate Agent (Part I)

Checking the status of your advisor

By: Steven Rich,
Marketing Manager for Panama Offshore Legal Services

Panama’s real estate boom brings thousands of foreigners looking to invest, live and retire in this beautiful country. Every Panamanian knows someone selling properties.

One gets the impression that everyone is profiting from the numerous real estate sales and investment opportunities.

Real estate agents are popping up everywhere to take advantage of this boom. It seems every tour guide, taxi cab driver, bartender, hotel worker, and barber is now a part-time real estate agent, and there is no M.L.S. (Multiple Lishing Service).

So Beware: Buyers can fall victims to swindles, frauds, forgeries, and malpractice committed by some so called "real estate agents".

So what should you look out for?
Panama’s real estate broker’s law defines a real estate agent as one who habitually and professionally operates as a mediator, intermediary, agent, or representative in real estate transactions. A commission is a payment to one who extends the above-mentioned services between a property owner and third parties. The law excludes people who work as promoters, administrators, rent collectors and maintenance providers who work under a licensed real estate broker.

A real estate agent is an intermediary in a transaction earning a commission for bringing a buyer and a seller together for the disposal of real estate. Every Panama real estate agent must be licensed. This requires studying applicable laws and regulations, and passing a written examination, to receive a license by the government to represent property sellers or buyers for a commission.

Licensed real estate agents must carry a card identifying them as such. Many people claiming to be real estate agents in Panama are not licensed.

This is where the danger lies. When someone shows you properties, you always ask questions about the property’s features, purchasing process, financing, and real estate laws. An unlicensed "real estate agent" will not have taken the hours of courses, read the books on the real estate laws & regulations, nor passed a written test. You need to ask, "Are you licensed?" Most of the time you will be told "No".

How Do They Get Away With It?
Instead of calling someone hired to show properties a "real estate agent"; they are called "consultants", "representatives", "promoters", "property showers", or even "negotiators". They are paid a salary or fee instead of a percentage commission. Their paychecks will say something like "marketing" or "professional services". Because they work for a licensed real estate broker, the law exempts them. Sellers can sell their own properties without a license. Developers can also hire people to sell their own projects without a license.

To become a licensed real estate agent you must:

  1. Take courses and pass a written exam administered by the Ministry of Industry & Commerce.
  2. Obtain a $10,000 bond to cover malpractice claims.
  3. Obtain a Power of Attorney presented by an attorney to a notary public.
  4. Pay Fiscal Stamps (Timbres Fiscales) annually of $25.
  5. You must be either a Panamanian national or a foreigner with 5 years residency.
  6. Obtain a Police record showing you never committed a felony against the nation, public faith, justice, or honor (whatever that means).

How Should An Agent Act?
Under the law, an agent should act in good faith when dealing with their clients (buyers and or sellers), and inform them of all factors that affect the property as it relates to Sales, Contracts, Zoning, Financing, etc. Agents must make sure they complete their activities within a practical time and do so in a professional manner. They should avoid all illegal practices in relation to buyers, sellers, other colleagues, and third parties. This includes avoiding: Fraud, False Representations, Misleading Advertising, Exaggerations, and Malicious Practices - that can damage the public and the image of the profession. Agents cannot offer or market a property without previous authority to do so. Agents must maintain strict confidentiality of all information provided by clients.

What, No MLS?
Another problem with Panama’s real estate industry is no Multiple Listing Service (MLS) exists. A MLS allows real estate offices to share their exclusive listings with other offices and split the total sales commissions with the agents who bring buyers. What we have here is an "every man for himself" type of non-exclusive listings. There are hundreds of real estate offices in Panama all competing against each other for an open listing where "the first come with a deposit and a Promise to Purchase Contract wins all" commission system. Thus, with no incentive for professional cooperation, it truly is every man or woman for him or herself. In spite of this bigger shark eats littler one system; there are some real estate offices cooperating and sharing listings with others. However, these are just a few small pockets. Therefore, when you visit different real estate offices you will see many of the same properties and condominium projects for sale. Sometimes the prices will be different because some sellers only offer a "net" listing where the seller gets a set price and the agent is free to add whatever commission desired on top. Thus, you can find the same property for less at a different real estate office.

 
 
 

Expat profile

The Doyen of British expats: a contact man "par excellence"

By David Young

Some year’s ago there was a story going the rounds about Murphy. He was the Irishman who constantly astounded his friends by the number of his high level contacts. Mention a name and Murphy knew him or her. Finally, exasperated by Murphy’s claim to know the Pope, Murphy and his friends journeyed to Rome. At the Vatican, to the astonishment of his friends, Murphy was welcomed inside by the Swiss Guards. The rest waited in the square. When the Pope appeared on the balcony, Murphy was by his side. As the crowd clapped an American tourist asked the group: "Say. who’s that Guy with Murphy?"

The story comes to mind whenever I meet Richard Vizor, the British doyen of expats, who has live in Panama for over 30 years.

During that time he has amassed a volume of friends and acquaintances that have made him the contact man par excellence for the expat community, and many business entrepreneurs.

His first contact with the Isthmus was in 1964 when serving in Britain’s Merchant Navy he traveled through the Canal. Ten years passed before he returned, but not before his first experience of a major civil confrontation while working in Indonesia, no longer a sailor.


Richard Vizor, a man for all seasons.

Accompanied by an Australian Journalist in search of pictures and a story, he became trapped between a mob of machete weilding protestors and a group of Government supporting army tanks. He had to practice all of his developing negotiating skills to get out of the predicament.

The episode, and succeeding events, became the subject of "A Year Living Dangerously" a book by the Australian which later became a film.

From Indonesia, where he contracted an infection leading to hearing loss, his British multi-national employers transferred him to Panama in 1974. He quickly rose to become sales and marketing director for he Caribbean, before adding Latin America to his territory, giving him an insight into the business and political networks over a vast area.

Meanwhile, in 1971, he married a Panamanian and gained access to another circle of opinion leaders.

All of this fed into his decision to remain in Panama when, after six years, his company planned to move him to Head Office, in London.

He set up his own company focusing on importing and distributing goods of all descriptions.

The business thrived in spite of some occasional bumps like the American invasion of 1989, which he witnessed from his home in the exclusive La Cresta community of Panama city.

After the invasion when John Le Carré arrived in Panamá to research his book, the Tailor of Panama, it was to Richard he turned for help for introductions to people who knew and would talk, about some of the murkier events leading up to fall of Noriega.

Meanwhile his social and sports life blossomed. Always a strong competitor in individual sports he reigned as Panama’s squash champion, played a mean game of tennis, white water rafted, sky- dived, competed in yacht races and still made time to play chess and read.

He remains active in over 50 clubs and societies and was instrumental in founding one called simply "The Club" with 50 influential business members, who meet for conversation, pool and social events.

He has also plays a prominent role in the British Colonial Luncheon group and the Panama British Business Association.

While in many ways he has had a charmed life he has also faced some major physical problems, which he fought and overcame.

After his ear problem, an accident led to tropical conjunctivis and left him virtually blind for two years. The final blow was in 2000 when he was diagnosed with cancer and went through chemotherapy, radiation and a series of major operations.

He closed his business and became what he calls a "British cop" acting as a consultant negotiating business transactions between often disparate, operators.

After defending the big C, he planned to return to some of his sporting activities but was grounded again by the need for a hip replacement.

Hampered though he was while waiting for surgery, he became and remains enthusuastially involved as the point man for the Panama Broadcasting Corporation, in partnership with Gerry Dowden.

What does Panama mean to him. "It’s a land of opportunity with no racism. It’s the place to be".

He has proved that in manys ways, and is perhaps one of the best known and least heralded of Panamanian residents, who has spent a lifetime flying under the radar and beating the odds.

 
 
 

Spirit of wine
A little piece of Paris comes to Panama

By David Young

From psycho-analyst to running a wine bar might seem a far stretch, unless you know that the owner and her husband are French citizens with their own vineyard in Provence, in the south of France and have long been planning a way of marketing its harvest in Panama.

Ma Maison, on Avenida Uruguay (Calle 49) in what has become the entertainment district of Panama, is owned by Andre and Elaine Beladina, who have lived in Panama for seven years. It is described as a "lounge bar", and there are others with the same description in the city. But when you climb the few steps past the attractive patio into Ma Maison, you know instantly that this is a different world. With its red velvet chairs and superbly orchestrated décor it is truly French and brings back vivid memories of similar retreats in Paris, where customers relaxed with a glass of wine, good company, and perhaps a famed jazz pianist playing in one corner.

There’s no pianist at Ma Maison, but who knows what the future will hold. But there is muted music with a French accent, and of course the air is not filled with the pungency of unfiltered Gitaines or Disque Bleu, a "blessing" even the French have given up in their restaurants.

The wines are all from France, but are dominated by vintages from Domaine de la Rouviere, the 22 hectare vineyard of the owners. Provence is famed for its high quality rose wines, and Ma Maison offers these along with a superb collection of reds and whites, all of which are offered for drinking, and for purchase. What better way of ending a visit in which you discover new flavors, than taking home a bottle of the wine that most appealed to your palate.

Along with the wine you can snack on pates, smoked salmon or stuffed olives, served of course with genuine French baguettes, or earlier in the day sample teas, hot chocolate, coffee and French patisseries.

Whenever you visit you can wander through the showroom that opens off the lounge to display a collection of wine accessories that you will find nowhere else in the city, perhaps not in Latin America. Where else would you be able to purchase an elegant saber for slicing off corks from Champagne bottles? The saber sits amid shelves overflowing with elegant goblets, wine filters, bottle openers as distinguished as the contents they were designed to reach and, for the man who has it all, a leather traveling case, complete with flask, openers and collapsible tot container?

Madame Beladina, is more than an owner. She is a true lover of wines, and will discourse happily with her customers about her own estate offerings, detailing everything from how the grapes are blended down to infinite details on filtering, tasting. She is happy to provide printed details on how to store and serve wines, along with suggestions on what meals they should accompany.

For example, when talking about Cuvee des Comtes 2002, a delightful dry rose, with a delicate aroma and fruity taste she gives details of the blend, 50 percent Cinsault, 30 percent Syrah and 20 percent Grenache. She recommends keeping it for no longer than two years at a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees Celsius, and cooled for serving to 6 degrees. Best drunk with cold foods, chicken, white meats, salads and cheeses, someat lover or vegetarian, you are well catered for.

The wines from their own estate, are labeled Terres Rouviere and the carefully blended grapes are processed with a system that expels air and replaces it with an inert gas that guarantees optimum conservation without adding chemicals to produce oxidation. Threats of headaches after imbibing are greatly reduced.

In addition to its own wines, Ma Maison offers all the regular favorites from Bourdeaux, Boulogne, and Burgundy, and an excellent Champagne. Cocktails, whiskies and cognacs are also available along with a selection of non alcoholic cocktails and smoothies.

And the prices? At first glance you would expect a frontal attack on your wallet, but prices for a glass of wine range from as low as $1.60 to $6.10 for a Chateau Neuf de Pape. There is one exotic offering at $59. It is there so that the tastes of customers can be measured over the months, and the wines on offer will reflect their tastes, so expect changes in the Carte de Vin each month.

It is a place that will soon become a haunt for true wine lovers, and for those who like to be seen or to people watch.

Panama has a new gem in its crown and all benefit from the successful conclusion to a couples’ dream. Vive la France.


When a pizza becomes “ gourmet”

When is a pizza something more than a pizza? When it’s a “Gourmet Pizza” say the owners of a new addition to Panama’s burgeoning list of places to eat and entertain.

Pizza, born and raised in Naples, descends from pita recipes used in Babylon, Ancient Egypt and Greece. The Lombardi invasion of Italy in the 18th Century introduced Mozzarella cheese, and Columbus, A Geonese indirectly contributed to the modern day pizza by his discovery of tomatoes in the New World.

Antonia Andyoutsos of Greek ancestry and Dragan Buric from Serbia have opened Gourmet Pizza, on Avenida Balboa, across the road from Multi Centro. They are and are rapidly developing a large base of Pizza lovers, many of whom have been brought back into the fold because the offerings are a big temptation to all but the strongest willed who have sworn off pizza for dietary or health reasons.

While they serve thin crust standard pizzas, it is the gourmet section of the menu that packs the lunchtime and evening customers into the minimalist interior. You can spoil yourself with offerings that include brie and procuitto, or Roquefort with imported ham and milled garlic, and a four cheese pizza, that becomes five with a topping of parmesan.

But there’s not only pizza to tickle the taste buds. There’s a wide range of antipastos bruschetta’s and salads, and even dessert pizzas with surprise combinations like , mozzarella honey and cinnamon, or cream custard or nuts with chocolate.

There is lots to explore on the menu, with desserts including tongue tempting baklava, kataifi and tiramisu.. It all comes with a full service wine, liquor and beer bar, plus a wide range of natural fruit juices. All pizzas are also available with whole wheat flour.

The restaurant is open from 11. a.m. to midnight, seven days a week.

Take-out is available in Paitilla, Punta Pacifica, Marvella and part of Bella Vista. Call 215-1000.


"Amore" a hidden ingredient
Pompei waiting to be uncovered

When Attilio Reale was a small boy in Italy he was taken to see the crater of Mount Vesuvius, the volcano that had destroyed the city of Pompei in 79 A.D.

Awed by the size of the crater, he was even more impressed by the ruins of the ancient city. As he grew up and became a chef, he decided that one day he would own his own restaurant and it would be called Pompei.

Seven months ago he arrived in Panama with his Colombian born wife after a five years stint as a chef in Miami’s Tiransu restaurant.

His dream came true two months ago when he opened Pompei 70 (D.C.) is the Spanish for A.D., and lovers of good food gained another "must-visit", haunt.

Atillio is the manager, chef and often the waiter in his immaculate restaurant, tucked away in Paitilla Mall, near Botica El Javillo, which is not far from Do It Center. Like the original Pompei, the exploration will prove worth the effort and you will find many hidden treasures.


Owner & chef Attilio Reale.

At Pompei, all the offerings contain a hidden ingredient, which Atillio calls Amore. He loves his work is constantly reinventing and out of the blue will add another dish to the daily menu, like his exquisite Rissoto. That may contain shrimp or fish or be a tasty vegetarian dish.

Everything is prepared to order, and a phone call ahead can guarantee a special presentation.

Among the regular listings on the extensive menu are scaloppine al porto, thin slices of beef in a port based sauce, or scaloppine al vino bianco where white wine replaces the port. There is a salmon dish in a vodka and cream sauce, and lobster and kosher dishes.

Born in Naples, where pizza was invented, Atillio is equally proud to display his home bred skills and his pizza gets the same extra ingredient as all the other dishes --- amore.

Pompei does not serve wine, but you may bring your own, and there is no corkage charge. So load up with chianti and enjoy.

 
 
 

Red devils reaching end of the line

Panama’s famed, Diablos Rojos, may soon be reaching the end of the line, and for some who think "infamous" is a more appropriate adjective, it can’t happen soon enough. But with their departure will go a favorite target for visiting shutter bugs. The painted exteriors, feature stars of stage, screen, and sports fields. Sometimes the interiors are equally decorated. The "art" works have been photographed thousands of times, and now adorn photo albums and computer files the world over. It’s unlikely that their transport replacements will get similar attention, the city will pet with a smoother and faster way of getting about.

The prime candidates for reducing traffic congestion, and easing the strain on drivers, and passengers, are articulated buses; a mono rail system which, if implemented, would be the longest passenger carrying system in the world; and a fast metro surface line, proposed by a Japanese consortium. Japan has one of the most efficient high speed transportation systems in the world, where trains carry millions of passengers every day and where not being on time is as near to being a crime as you can get.

A new world is coming and, it is said, a decision will be made "soon".

Here we show some of the buses still on the road before they depart to some bus Valhalla, or elephant’s graveyard, again, depending on your point of view.

 
 
 

The lives of the people of Los Santos

Stanley Heckadon-Moreno besides Prof. Pedro Luis Prados, editorial director of the university Dr. Carlos Manuel Gasteazoro.

Dr. Stanley Heckadon-Moreno recently presented at the National Library the second edition of his book "When the mountain ends". The story of the people of Los Santos and the colonisation of Tonosí is a perfect subject now that people are more interested in protecting the environment and the natural resources.

It is an edition in a more elegant format, incorporating new illustrations, texts and interviews with residents of the region of Tonosí, province of Los Santos.

Prof. Pedro Luis Prados, editorial director of the university Dr. Carlos Manuel Gasteazoro, welcomed the audience, and Prof. Francisco Herrera, Chairman of Anthropology and History of the University of Panama, were present.

"When the mountain ends" is a estudy of campesino behaviour in Tonosí, from the perspective that avoids using history as a source for interpretation of a society.

"The book is in some way a cultural historic study that allows us know about the process of colonization in the region of Tonosí, starting from the last half of 19th century, until 1960's, when four generations have passed by, and people start to move from that region to other agricultural areas".

 
 
 


Veggie heaven

One recent visitor to Panama, a vegetarian, asked for advice on finding either restaurants with a vegetarian listing attached to the menu, or any places that served only vegetarian meals.

In North America many restaurants list vegetarian meals to satisfy not only those who have eschewed eating meat, but the ever growing half-way crowd who see the occasional veggie route as a way to keep the pounds or kilos at bay.

Unfortunately most Panamaian restaurants hide their vegetarian offerings, if any, in the regular menu.

By a happy coincidence I had just been invited to the second anniversary celebration of Novena, a vegetarian restaurant given to not only producing good food, but also hosting art and musical events.

Novena’s logo is a line drawing of Beethoven, and it lies on Avenue Argentina, which with its many restaurants and bars with outdoor patios, gives this corner of Panama a European flavor.

The food is cooked in front of you in an open kitchen and although the menu is not large, the food is well prepared and affordable. There are ten different soups, and a fine selection of appetizers.

The main dishes include stuffed peppers, crepes, leek and onion pies and stuffed peppers. Desserts include a Viennese apple pie peppered with slice almond and there is a wide selection of shakes and drinks freshly made with natural fruit.

No wine is served, but you are free to bring your own, and no corkage is charged.

There is a lunchtime executive menu, and breakfast with succulent vegetable and cheese omelettes, fruit and yogurt, slices of delicious multi-grain bread and a huge glass of freshly squeezed fruit juice, is served from ten a.m. to 12 noon. If you are a weekend late riser, it’s a good place to start your day.

Most of the recipes originated in Germany where Arthur Smith, one of the co-owners, studied. His partner is Judith Burac, and they met when working at a Colon Oil refinery. When the refinery closed, they decided to open Novena.


You can see your food being prepared at La Novena.

With Beethoven as the eminence gris, there is a large selection of CD’s of his works, and you are free to select your choice which is played softly in the background and not even his 9th Symphony will drown out conversation.

There is a reading nook in the restaurant with books, magazines and daily newspapers, and as the restaurant is also billed as a chocelateria, you can drop by for a morning or afternoon cuppa and bring yourself up to date on the goings on in the world.

Both owners speak English.


Bread from white to black and shades in between

While the arrival of new residents and an ever increasing number of visitors is bringing increased prosperity to the country, there are many side benefits for those already here ... the rapid growth of new services, stores, and restaurants.

A welcome new arrival is Canada Panderia, bringing fresh varieties of the "staff of life". They sell, of course, many shapes and sizes of white and integral bread, but I was delighted to discover black bread, an old time favorite that turns a simple sandwich into a hearty feast.

The store owners, Paul Bortniker and Mike Sadedsky, newly arrived from Russia, via Israel and Toronto, supervise all the daily baking and are producing small and large loaves. The small ones are a good way to test the product on the family and you won’t believe the low pricing. My family scoffed a loaf of black bread in one sitting and complained that I had bought only the small one.

The shelves are also loaded with 10 kinds of bagel, including sweet tasting, and what seem to be the largest baguettes in the city. The breads include cheese bread, and bread made with egg dough.

The bakery in Plaza Paitilla also has a café serving sandwiches, bagels and coffee. There are taster samples of the fillings. Try the cream cheese and smoked salmon, but take a healthy appetite with you.Opening hours are 7-8:00p.m. Monday - Saturday 9:00a.m. - 6:00p.m. of.


Dream World

Still on the subject of lotteries, Scotia Bank is offering customers a chance to win a Porsche Boxster but you need a little more than the 25c that lets you into the lottery stakes. Qualifications for entering the tombola are maintainign regular a $1000 deposit in your savings account, or opening a term desposit, and getting one entry for each $1000 deposited. The promotion runs until June 30. Keep dreaming.


Missing strawberries

One thing that puzzles a lot of my friends is not the fast disappearance of a popular product from food shelves in the supermarket, but the slow pace of replacement. Perhaps the fast sale is a pent up demand. Some examples I have experienced are a frozen dough and baked beans with tomato sauce and cheese fondue. Beans with pork no problem. With tomato sauce no luck. I last spotted them in El Rey, 2-two years ago.

Fondue, when it comes, is snapped up by people who have a big fridge and buy "in bulk" knowing that further supplies may be a long time coming. At the time of writing it is available at Riba-Smith. It’s the perfect stand-by for a quick meal, with bite size chunks of your favorite baguette and apple.

At one time my freezer contained 6lb bags of frozen strawberries, ideal for breakfast smoothies, mixed with bananas, apples, milk, tofu milk, or yogurt, and other fruit of your choice. I haven’t seen the strawberries for over a year! If any reader finds a source, let me know.


Book Fair
bargains
If you are a bargain shopper, (and who isn’t?) don’t miss Panama’s International Book Fair at Atlapa on May 15-20. Last time I visited many of the stands were offering books, CD’S and other items at discounted prices.

It’s the look
that counts
You would be surprised (or maybe you wouldn’t) at how many of the elegantly dressed ladies and their escorts, stepping out of their BMW’S, Toyota’s, Mercedes, have mixed some of their haute couture garments with bargain basement items from some of the mass merchandising stores. They, and you, will be happy to see the latest low cost offerings at the new Saks store in El Dorado. They’re worth checking out.

Lotteries
to Expand.
Just in case you haven’t found enough ways to fritter away your hard earned money. The scoop is that the National Lottery is going to provide some new "incentive". Easy come, easy go, but on the other land, maybe Lady luck is looking over your shoulder.

Opening
and Closing
Conway, the new store at MultiCentro in Panama City is drawing crowds. More on what shopping treasures lie in store, in our next edition.

 
 
 

Coming soon to The Visitor

Look for these special features in future editions

The Causeway
Fast becoming one of Panama City’s favorite Rendezvous, for everyone from joggers and cyclists to yachtsmen, disco jetters, diners, or people watchers. If Bennigan’s is there it must be taking off.

The Hipodrome
Panama’s race track has a long history, producing winning horses and jockeys, and in June will feature a major classic event.

Where to worship
Panama has places of worship covering many religions from Catholic and Protestant to Jewish, Hindu, Muslin, Budist, Bahia. The Visitor provides a guide to help you fulfill your spiritual needs.

The Karaoke challenge
Even if you don't speak Spanish, you can have fun in the Panama karaoke world. The Visitor enters the land of the would be songsters and comes out hoarse, but with ego intact.

Animal Care
For those accustomed to cooler climes, the adjustment to the tropics sometimes takes a little time, but with care sun tan lotion and air conditioning the transition can be a pleasurable experience. But what about your pets? A look at some ways to ensure "mans" best friend" and other pets adjust to their new world.

Insurance for new comers
All settled in New home, new car, clean bill of health from the doctor, except for....? The Visitor gets a professionals view on how to cover yourself.

Shopping with Lourdes
There are offers galore, sales, bargains - everything for the shopper on the move, from malls to boutiques. Lourdes will bring you details of the continuing Panamanian shopping paradise.

New in Panama
It seems that not a day goes by without the opening of a new restaurant, or tourist facility, and our roving reporters are out there to guide you to new places to explore.

 
 



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