Casuale

A new and fine dining experience in Casco Viejo

Open just six months in premises formely occupied by the "La Macarena" restaurant, Casuale brings a new and fresh sensitivity to the Casco Viejo fine dining scene.

Elegantly modern yet welcoming, you have the feeling you have wandered into someone's well appointed, comfortable home.

Once you pass the bar area and enter the spacious dining room, you find shelves packed with fascinating framed photos of Old Panama.

Candles glow softly, a large glassed-in wine cellar stands in one corner. An appealing first impression that makes you wonder if the chef can mantain it with his cuisine.

The answer is an unequivocal and resounding "yes". The chef succeeds on all fronts; freshness, presentation, quality, flavor and dining satisfaction.

Appetizers introduce you to what is to come...they should blend into a meal, not stand apart.

My group started with a cream of asparagus and squash soup, a wonderfully smooth and rich vegetable soup divided into halves...asparagus ladled on one side, squash on the other. Each has its own distinct flavor and seasonings but they were thick enough that they didn't blend. Excellent dish!

Next was a generous portion of portobello mushrooms sauted in a balsamic reduction. No one has to convince me to consume mushrooms...I am the first in line, especially for fresh portobellos. But when served with the tangy, semi-sweet, pungent flavor of a balsamic vinegar reduced to its purest essence, it moves into another realm. Simple, but delicous.

The next appetizer was a large serving of Panamanian cheese, grilled until its flavorful oil began to ooze, topped with two slices of fried, breaded tomato and rushed to the table.

The combination of warm, almost melted cheese with the crunch of the tomato's exterior, then combined with the sweet softness of its interior was, sublime. Unusual and delicious.

However, I save the best for last; kudos to whoever dreamed up the idea of combining the flavors of a classic Waldorf salad with ceviche! Waldorf ceviche has diced apples, cashews and other ingredients that lift this simple dish into another category.

And this is the opinion of someone who doesn't care for ceviche all that much! Unusual, unexpected and extremely good.

The beautifully presented main courses followed and the real critique began.

Each course consisted of the freshest of ingredients and was prepared by a very knowing and experienced chef...one that realizes, that the reputation of their respective restaurant goes out with every dish served.

The filet mignon with portobello sauce was perfectly rare, tender and the portion almost more than one person can eat.

Surrounded by tender julienne vegetables and baby potatoes, the accent of the portobello sauce was just the right flavor highlight to move this from "just" the best filet I have had in Panama, to perhaps the best I have ever had. A remarkable start.

Next we sampled a lightly grilled tuna steak, sprinkled with yet again balsamic reduction and topped with sautéed arugula.

The chef is obviously aware that balsamic vinegar, is a highly adaptable foundation for a sauce and he uses it at Casuale in many dishes and to good effect.

The large tuna filet was perfectly cooked and delicious, although I should have asked for a small side of the sauce to dab on the tender flesh after the outer coating was consumed.

The final entrée was two large chicken breasts with cheese sauce. Large sautéed chicken breasts were lightly sauced with a rich melted cheese, topped with thin slices of prosciutto, surrounded by a julienne of zucchini and diced potatoes. The combination of flavors was perfect.

Four delicious and creative appetizers, four perfectly prepared main courses...what else could we ask for? How about four desserts?

The Gateau, made by the manager's wife (as was the flan) was a tempting mélange of rich ice cream mounded on a crusty/cookie type base and was my hands down favorite.

Others thought the flan...firm, with a strong caramel flavor...was the best.

The generous serving of Oreo cheesecake was also extremely good, while the lime pie lacked that tart kick that creation requires.

I didn't find one misstep in the evening’s dining or culinary experience. Quite a feat when prices are so moderate...$7.00 for a pasta dish to $16.50 for the Chateaubriand. A bargain at any price.

A salute to Björn Jóhannsson and his staff for bringing Casuale to fruition. It is indeed a bright star in Casco Viejo's fine dining constellation.