Dining out with Bob Stiff

El Patio Mexicano – the real thing

I have driven past El Patio Mexicano in El Cangrejo many times and asked myself…"I wonder if the food they serve is ‘real’ Mexican cuisine or has it been adapted to local tastes." I grew up in the U.S. on what is referred to as "Tex-Mex", a dysfunctional blend of Southwestern U.S. tastes, Texas flair, copious amounts of cheese, chili powder and, finally, bastardized Mexican recipes.

Later I discovered the culinary delights of the "real thing" in visits to Monterrey and Mexico City.

So it was quite a treat to discover that, after visiting El Patio Mexicano last week, I had the answer to my question… the food served is definitely the "real thing" and the dishes sampled were identical to, and in some cases better than, some of the best Mexican dishes I had enjoyed in Mexico itself.

My party and I were fascinated by the highly festive and colorful décor and perused an extensive menu, while sipping what are undoubtedly the best margaritas in Panamá City.

Instead of ordering, I decided to let the waiter pick what he considered were the restaurant’s premier dishes. Soon the first appetizers arrived; Gachupas de codero, spring-roll-like wraps that were delicious… crunchy exterior with a spicy, but not-hot meat filling, the prerequisite chips with three different sauces, a pico gallo and a dish of guacamole.

Warning…when your waiter tells you one of the salsas is hot, do not doubt his word… it is tongue-numbingly hot. The sauces were well made and great with the home-made chips, but the guacamole was rather bland. However, once we mixed in some pico gallo it was transformed. Next up was Pepitas Casados and Quesadillas Mixtas… they disappeared so fast I barely had time to sample them before they were gone. The Pepitas Casados was an especially well made and seasoned appetizer…almost a meal in itself, while the quesadillas were meltingly good. As the staff cleared the table before serving the main courses, another round of margaritas were poured and our slightly tingling taste-buds were given a respite.

The restaurant has a highly festive and colorful décor.

Minutes later, three large dishes were placed on the table and the feast began in earnest. First was Molé Poblano, a meaty portion of chicken smothered in a very nicely seasoned and delicious Molé. And that is high praise coming from someone who is not a big fan of this chocolate-based sauce. But the chefs at El Patio Mexicano have a fine hand with the spices and this Molé was actually one of the best I have ever had… rich, creamy, with a chocolate undertone that did not overpower the tender chicken flavor.

The next two dishes were total surprises as they featured meats I last ate when I was in a small town near Monterrey, and never thought I would find in a Mexican restaurant in Panamá… a perfectly cooked, Roasted Goat, and a rich and succulent Roast Suckling Pig.

As always in Mexican cuisine, it is easy to overpower the main ingredient with full-bodied spices but these two dishes were the epitome of "less is best". The goat meat was rich, its distinctive flavor intact and notably enhanced by expert preparation.

The Roast Suckling Pig featured four large portions, the skin slightly crunchy as it should be, the interior meat literally dripping with flavor. If you shy away from anything seemingly "exotic", do yourself a favor and give at least one of these dishes a try.

Sated, we nibbled at the desserts, the most notable of which was a perfect Sorbeto Maracuyá, tart-yet-sweet, a totally delightful way to end what was an exceptional meal and to also snuff out any residual heat from the spices.

Prices are moderate but quality and authenticity come with a price. Trust me, the excellent cuisine served at El Patio Mexicano is well worth it.