Click here to go to Front Cover
VOL. 13 #13 -- June/ Junio 15 - 28, 2007
Menu
Cover Article
Places Section
Restaurants
Tours Section
Comming Events
News Section
Special Features
Spanish Version


Special Articles

 

EXPATS PROFILE

In search of a dream—Paris to Panama

By David Young

Starr MacCaman and Steve Holmes, went to High School together in California. When they headed for university, Starr to study graphic design, Steve to take courses that would lead him to a career as a pilot, they lost touch for 20 years.

They married, brought up families and built successful careers, and lived within 10 miles of each other without ever meeting.

Starr became an international art director and marketing executive, working for major corporations in "Silicon Valley", California, before moving to Paris.

Steve became a senior pilot with Federal Express flying around the world.

When his daughter wanted to improve her French by studying in Paris, he was given Starr’s address.

He e-mailed for advice, and traveled with his daughter to Paris. The adult single-parents met again, fell-in love and were married in Provence.

When Starr developed chronic bronchitis in the damp Paris winters they decided it was time to remove from the weather and the pressures of high end marketing. She also wanted to pursue a dream of sharing with the community some of the rewards she had earned during a fulfilling life.


Steve Holmes and Starr MacCaman.

They jointly developed a target list of "retirement" locations including the South of France and several tropical countries, like Costa Rica.

Their final choice had to be remote, yet close enough to an airport for Steve to carry on his career. It had to have sufficient space for Starr to fulfill her dream.

Panama was not on the list.
Only when a fellow pilot told Steve of his visits during stopovers did Panama get a nod. It was love at first sight. They visited and hunted around for a location where they could develop a cultural retreat. A forty-acre farm was not in their sights., until after a week of shopping, their agent persuaded them to take a look at Finca La Maya in San Carlos. It was remote enough from retirement communities, but close enough to a major airport.

It was near to a local community where they felt they could be of service, and it was a corner of paradise.

In July of 2006 they moved in and the dream began to take shape (see page 28).

 
 
 

Buying a condo II

Ask the questions – get it in writing

By Steven Rich

Whenever you are buying a condo, you should be asking lots of questions.

What are the monthly maintenance fees and what services do they include (water, gas, garbage, sewer, security, etc.)?

Are all apartments paying equal maintenance fees?

Does the developer or owner plan to have commercial space in the building and what maintenance fees will they pay? Does the developer have votes in the condo owner’s board and/or elections? Who selects the first condo board of directors (the owners or the developer)?

Steven Rich continues with some useful tips for condo buyers.

If you are purchasing an older condo, you also need to ask about any assessments (present, past & future) and the amount per unit.

How much money is in the condo association reserves?

Ask for a copy of the condo association certified audit (not the short income statement). Under Panama law, you are entitled to it as an owner.

Total Condo Size in square meters doesn't mean measuring the interior walls. Total area space includes the outside walls, balconies, even unusable ledges!

Future Assessments may be a problem in Panama City. Who will pay for the new highway expansion across Panama Bay, sewer treatment plants, Panama City road expansions and repairs, and clean up of Panama Bay?

The government proposes that new condo development projects be assessed taxes and fees to help pay for all of this. That means condo developers will pass on the fees to the buyers.

Canceling Contracts by developers is becoming common now that prices are escalating. Let’s say a pre-construction condo sold for $150,000. Before construction ends the market value rises to $250,000. Developers are becoming greedy. They sometimes offer to cancel the Purchase Contract and return the deposits to resell the condo for a higher price. Is this legal?

First, look at what your Purchase Contract states. If it doesn’t include this event, you will end up fighting to keep the developer from canceling the contract for a bigger profit. Seller Non-performance penalties must be included in your Purchase Contract. You need a penalty clause to motivate the seller and/or developer to perform on time.

Condo resale’s prior to completion is becoming a popular sport here in Panama. Speculators who bought cheaply a year or two ago are now trying to sell before the occupancy permit is issued requiring the balance on their down payments. Purchase contracts written by developers try to limit resale because they directly compete with the unsold units the developers want to sell.

Too many real estate agents and developers promise that the entire condo project will finish within two years. What can you do if your pre-construction condo is running a year behind schedule? Your Purchase Contract must contain specific completion dates and strict penalties for delays.

What’s included? Nothing. In Panama. New condos don't include any fixtures, appliances, air conditioners, water heaters, or furniture. Developers will charge you extra to include fixtures and appliances.

A fully equipped kitchen is called "Linea Blanca" in Panama. Beware of cheap fixtures and appliances installed by greedy developers.

If you are going to pay extra, make sure that the Purchase Contract lists acceptable brands, models, sizes, etc. installed by the developer prior to occupancy. If it’s not in writing, you won’t get it.

That includes small items you take for granted like toilet paper holders and hand soap dishes. If you intend to install a garbage disposal, make sure the developer installs a kitchen sink with a large enough drainpipe.

Verify Parking and Storage Space location and size. You need to look at the plans to see whether your parking spaces are difficult to access or too crowded.

Air Conditioning is necessary in Panama. If the developer agrees to install, make sure it’s suitable central or split air conditioning and energy efficient.

Materials Fee clauses like "Up to five percent for increase of materials cost during construction to be paid by purchaser". Be prepared to pay this because greedy developers will enforce this clause every time... If it’s in writing.

You need to research future projects and available land that may eventually block your breathtaking views.

Follow these procedures and hire competent professionals to assist you with your condo purchases. Then sit back and enjoy your new home in paradise.

Steven Rich is Marketing Manager for Panama Offshore Legal Services.

 
 
 

Time to brighten up your life – at a discount


Linda Chimenti displays a new tattoo.

Time was when tattoos were the mark of sailors who carried on their arms or chests the name of loved ones twirled around it.

Of course with a girl in every port that could get complicated.

Now the 5000 year-old art, has become mainstream. Actors, models, businessmen and women from all levels of society head for tattoo parlors for everything from discreet ankle decorations to major portraits on arms, chests, or wherever there is room for the artist to perform.

Now Panama has its own high-end tattoo art center Skin Deep Inkz, run by expat husband and wife team Kim Davis and Linda Chimenti. The setting is reminiscent of a fashionable big city beauty parlor with Leo Sarskian prints decorating the walls, luxurious padded arm chairs and a Buddha in the reception area.


Portraits on arms and chests are
popular among clients.

The tattoo artists and piercers work in a sanitized environment, that resembles a hospital surgery, complete with a tiled sterile room with ultrasonic cleaners and an autoclave, where all instruments and needles are sterilized after use.

The originals come prepackaged from the United States.

Along with colorful decorations comes body piercing and permanent makeup.

If you are looking to get your body decorated, there are catalogues of designs by the dozen, all of which can be reworked to suit your own needs.

And then there is permanent make up, including eyebrows, eyeliner and lips. While the work is in progress anesthetic cream is applied.

For those into body piercing, there is a wide selection of jewelry to choose from.

The store is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday to Friday, and noon to 9 p.m. on Saturday. And there is an introductory 15 percent discount for all treatments. Call 390-9333.

The center is located on Calle 56 behind Bingo 90.


Cultural Club attracts many nationalities


Members discuss future plans.

Over 20 people from 11 different countries turned up for the inaugural meeting of a new cultural group in Panama.

The brainchild of French born Remy Offenbach, The Guayabera Club Intelligent Diversion, is intended to bring together people from diverse backgrounds, with a common interest in exploring cultural activities from film to stage, ballet to books, jazz to classical music.

The Club is informal, with no fees, and input on cultural events will be welcomed from all members. The current group has participants from Panama, Europe, North and South America. For further information e-mail: rembach@hotmail.com


An opulent hotel for Bocas del Toro

A luxurious hotel with 118 rooms will open in January 2008 in the Caribbean province of Bocas del Toro. The aptly named establishment, Playa Tortuga Hotel & Beach Resort will be located a few minutes from the center of Isla Colón and it will be an ecotouristic complex, specially designed for those who enjoy the sea and are in search of a more relaxing experience.

The owner of the resort, Guillermo Quijano, explained to The Visitor that the idea of creating a hotel of this magnitude in Bocas del Toro, is to respond to the needs of the families for more child friendly recreational facilities in that province and at the same create an option that will care for, appreciate and preserve the natural resources.


The swimming pool and dock have bar service.

The hotel will have 78 rooms, 37 junior suites and three master suites, in addition to a hall that can be divided for events and meetings. The swimming pool and dock have bar service. The restaurant will have an extensive menu of international and Caribbean food.

The Playa Tortuga Hotel & Bar will offer a range of activities to satisfy any taste from volleyball and scuba diving, to surfing and rambling through the woods.

Other options will include visits to an indigenous town, to see turtles laying their eggs. There will be boat tours to spot dolphins and excursions to nearby places such as the Isla Pájaro, Cayo Zapatilla and the Marine Park of Bastimentos.

Bocas del Toro can be reached by plane or bus. The flight to the International Airport of Bocas, in Isla Colón. takes approximately one hour and the round ticket costs $167.82. The bus from the Gran Terminal Nacional de Transporte in Albrook to Almirante is $46.00. From there, you must take an aquatic taxi or a ferry to Isla Colón.


A touch of France for city wine bar


Mario Olivotto.

Ma Maison, the recently opened French wine bar, has complemented its ambience with the introduction of a renowned pianist.

Italian born Mario Olivotto, who performed in hotels in Paris for 22 years, will be playing every Thursday evening from 8.30 p.m.

Throughout his long playing career Mario was a student of Aldo Ciccolini, world famed for his interpretations of Ravel, Debussy and Satie. Ciccolini has made more than a hundred recordings, including the complete sonata cycles of Mozart and Beethoven.


Mario has some impromptu support.

Mario has inherited many of the master's interpretive skills, and moves easily from popular music, through classics to jazz, Edith Piaff, and Cole Porter. He adds vocal interpretations to his repertoir and enthusiastic audience back up.

The cost of admision, is $5, which includes the first glass of wine from the owners' own vineyard in Provence or, if you plan to start the evening on a high note, Kir Royale at $8. After that wine ranges from $1.60 upwards. There is also an extensive menu of snacks and desserts.


Enthusiastic audience participation.

Ma Maison is on Calle 49, near Avenida Uruguay, and opposite La Posta restuarant.

For Thursday evening, it's best to make a reservation. Call 264-4608.


A Market where good food comes first

The restaurant scene in Panama gets better every day. Now Posada, already a "must reserve" and "must-be seen " place for the beau-monde, has opened a new eatery promising equally high levels of service and food.


A greta place to dine.

Defined as a steak bar, it has a unique décor, reflecting its name. The walls are lined to the ceiling with hundreds of bottles of wine. Racks of whisky bottles sit atop the bar, reflecting the lunch time sun like some ultra modern stained glass window, appropriate enough in a “cathedral” dedicated to food.

The menu is replicated in chalk, on blackboards that border the servery, much like those famed restaurants that still line the site of the former Les Halles in Paris. But this is no onion soup haunt. The furnishings are minimalist, but not the food Steaks and hamburgers are what customers are looking for, and that’s what they get in abundance: six different hamburgers from the Slider at $5.75 to the Doble Carne at $10.75

The classic New York Steaks are from imported meat, including a 22 oz Angus dry aged rib eye. Don’t ask the price, but those who have tried it drool at the memory.


Wine connoisseurs wiil be in heaven.

Chicken, salmon and lobster round off the menu along with some hearty desserts and that Australian favorite, the Pavolova.

Wine? Choosing a glass of house wine is easy.. Six offerings (more promised later). If you want to choose from the wine list, put on your thinking cap and challenge your wine-snob friends. One hundred and eighty are listed, ranging from $14 to $110.

You are free to drop in for a drink during opening times (12 noon to last orders at 10.30) so that gives you ample time for research.


Art comes in two forms at Boga Restaurant


Owner Moisés Fraguela inspects his wine cellar.

At the newly opened Boga restaurant, art is on the walls and in the cuisine. The menu contains the creations of award winning French chef Andre Lestiénne.

He specializes in Mediterranean dishes with, of course, a French emphasis, and in his extensive selection, he caters to all tastes from fish or meat lover to vegetarian. His desserts are made to order.

Complementing the food is an extensive wine list from France, Italy, Spain and California with prices for a bottle ranging from $14 to $150. You can order your selection from the table, or accompany owner Moises Fraguela into the wine "cave" to browse and retrieve your own bottle.

The walls of the attractive interior are hung with paintings from the adjacent Weil Art Gallery.


An elegant place with great atmosphere.

Adjoining the restaurant is a bar, with a separate entrance, serving drinks and snacks, and the establishment is fronted by a pleasant dining patio.


Where the magic happens.

It has become a must-see place for many diners. And has already been included in the Expats calendar.

Boga is on Calle 48, Bella Vista, next door to Eurasia. It is open Monday to Saturday 12 noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.

For reservations call: 301-9671

 
 
 

A trip back in time on postcards


Intakes for flooding locks at Miraflores.

The exhibition of the postcards collection: "Reverse Divided: Graphic Patrimony in the Charles Muller Collection" was opened late May as part of events to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the Canal I Museum of Panama in Casco Viejo.


Gates of East Chamber, Locking North at Pedro Miguel.

The compilation, which occupies two floors of the museum, was donated by the British born, Charles Muller and contains more than 1100 postcards from editorial houses such as I.L. Mauro, A. Papio & Co and Alberto Linda among others. The collection also includes 100 photographs.


Center wall of upper locks at Miraflores.

The subject matter of exhibits varies and goes from the Panama Canal's construction, to military parades, funerals and festivals.

These cards are a significant contribution to the history of the Panamanian postcards.


Waters flood into a lock.

The exhibition will be open until July 8 at Canal Interoceanico's Museum from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.

An annotated book containing hundreds of illustrations of cards, divided into subject, is available at the museum for $50.00.


Chilean battleship "La Torre" in Pedro Miguel Locks.

 
 
 

An international cultural center where dreams come true

By David Young

"Welcome to our corner of paradise" said Starr McCaman when I arrived with my wife at the imposing carved wooden doors of what had once been known as a hacienda.


The “hacienda”.

Under the ownership of Starr and husband Steve Holmes, the forty acre site has adopted the more modest name Finca (farm) La Maya but there is no call for modesty when listing its attributes: a stand of teak trees, fruit and nut bearers like mangos, almonds, coconuts, avocados, bananas, lemons and guavas. Fresh vegetables come from two gardens cultivated each evening as flocks of pericos settling in the almond trees herald dusk’s arrival. Fresh eggs come from a large chicken run.

There are horses and trail rides, swimming pool, a Jacuzzi and even a putting green. The main house is shaded by a host of different trees including the travelers’ palm, an apt choice when you learn that Steve is a Fedex pilot, and the couple are renowned travelers.


Class over. Time to smile.

The central house with a high gabled ceiling is furnished with items from Mexico, South and Central America, a visitor’s dream home. But for the expat owners who have established the property as a cultural oasis, pride of place goes to the classroom they have built to serve not only incoming study groups, but also the local community.

Each weekend, children and adults trek from kilometers around to receive English and art classes at no cost. When the project was launched in January of this year there were over 100 children streaming through the gates to be taught by volunteers recruited by Starr, who gently refuses to take no for an answer. Adults can join the English classes. Art classes are for children up to fourteen.

From nearby Coronado comes Lara Lausie, to teach English and increase the future chances of her students to obtain jobs in local tourist centers like Decameron and Playa Blanca.

Further down the major highway to Panama is García Ceramics, whose owner, known affectionately to the children as Senor Garcia, gives up his time on Saturday afternoons to teach them how to make and decorate pottery, which he then transports to his own workshop for baking and glazing.


“Señor García” guides a student.

Starr, a lifelong creative artist, who spent 16 years in Paris, teaches drawing and painting. The walls of the classroom are decorated with scores of pictures by children who had never before held a an artist’s brush in their hands. While they are at work, the room is silent as they concentrate with almost ferocious determination, eased by their willingness to help each other.

Hovering in the background is husband Steve, a Fedex pilot who provides encouragement and master-of-all-trades assistance to wife and children.

The silence is finally broken when the class ends and the children are invited to put their works on a central table for display and a photo session. There is a spontaneous cheer, and smiles light up faces and the room, on a rainy afternoon.

Before they leave there are kisses and hugs for teachers and visitors.

In addition to teaching, Starr carries on an active campaign to get donations of supplies for her young charges.


Concentration.

Meanwhile she continues developing her program for instructors from all over the world to bring groups to study art, creative writing, music, yoga, wellness, photography or any other course.

The central lodge and guesthouse can sleep up to 20 people and groups can be provided with gourmet meals prepared with freshly caught fish and food from the farm, or cater for themselves in the spacious kitchen and at the outdoor barbecue.

It is also available for family reunions, weddings and business get togethers.

For information or directions call 240-2840 or check the web page www.fincalamaya.com

 
 
 

A sixty year embrace brings memories flooding back

By David Dell


Ziska Hartman in 1942.

There are many thousands of stories about the early days in Panama, stories of hardship, suffering, and the struggles to make a living. This is a true story about a child born with an affliction to a large and poor family; child who could have faced a lifetime of ridicule and embarrassment – save for the intervention of a kindly stranger.

Ziska Hartmann was born in 1932, one of ten children, in the mountains of Chiriqui. Sadly he was born with a cleft palatte, a condition that at the time only skilled and expensive surgery could have corrected. His father, Alois, was struggling to feed his large family as well as trying to start a coffee farm. To send his son to Panama for treatment was simply out of the question.

A neighbor of the Hartmanns’s was Carl Pfeiffer. He worked in the Canal Zone, had the necessary contacts in the medical community there to help the young boy, and offered to take him to Panama City and pay for his care.

Pfeiffer, a long time member of the Masonic Lodge, was a member of the Panama Canal Consistory No.1. Masons are by design a secretive society, but much to their credit, the many, and generous donations they make to society are also done secretly, without thought to fanfare and publicity.

Carl Pfeiffer told the boy’s father that the various surgeries, followed by healing time, could take as long as three years. In that time he stayed at the Pfeiffer home in Panama City and became a close friend to their daughter, Lois.


Ziska and Lois reunited.

Lois and Ziska soon became inseparable. As she later recalled she was almost a mother to him – a very bossy mother, she confessed.

Ziska’s operation in 1942 was a success. A photograph shows him after the operation sitting on the side of the sea wall in Panama City. His face, and his self esteem restored.

The Pfeiffer’s moved on and despite occasional letters, contact between Ziska and his childhood friend Lois faded with the years.

In 2007 Lois Pfeiffer contacted me at the website I was running called yourpanama.com as I had written an article on Alois Hartmann, the father of Ziska. She wondered, if he was still alive. She planned a trip back to the mountains of Chiriqui to see the place she had known and loved as a child. Through my research I found out that indeed he was alive and well and living near the Hartmann coffee estate at Santa Clara near Volcan.

It was a sunny May morning as Lois and her daughter Margaret set out with me to drive the twenty minutes or so along the winding road to Santa Clara. Lois wondered if Ziska would remember her, perhaps the many years that passed had faded his memory.


Happy reunion.

We pulled into a small hacienda. A slim man with a dark moustache appeared on the balcony. "Ziska Hartmann?" I asked. "yes," he replied as he walked toward the car. Lois Pfeiffer stepped out of the car and the sixty years that had separated them dwindled to nothing as they grasped each other in a long embrace.

The afternoon rain was just beginning to fall, as tears rolled down the cheeks of the two long-lost childhood friends. Lois Pfeiffer tearfully said, "I didn’t think you’d remember me." Ziska held Lois in his outstretched arms, and gazing down at the daughter of the man that had forever changed his life, said. "Oh no Lois, I have never forgotten you."

A small crowd of people watched the embrace that had been sixty years in the making, a heartwarming final chapter in a story that started in the dark days of World War 2, when a Panama Canal Zone worker, and his daughter, stretched out a hand of friendship to a poor Panamanian boy.

 
 
 


Father’s Day nearing 100

Father’s Day is not, as some of my cynical friends like to believe, an invention of a greetings card manufacturer.

While it does not have the long religious antecedents of Mother’s Day, it does have a history, and is approaching 100 years. Mrs John B. Dodd of Spokane, Washington, wanted a day to remember her father, a widower and Civil War Veteran, who raised six children on his own when his wife died in childbirth.

The first Father’s Day was celebrated in Spokane on June 19 1910, and the idea spread across the US. By 1924 President Calvin Coolidge supported the idea of a national day, In 1966 President Lyndon Johnson signed a proclamation declaring the third Sunday in June, Father’s Day.

It’s coming up fast and the stores are full of offers, some of which I have jotted down.

Felipe Motta, always a pleasant place for browsing has listed five items to tantalize Dad’s taste buds, starting off with an 8 year old Bacardi rum at $15.50.

The list continues with Dewars 12-year-old special reserve at $20.90 a specially packaged Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, with a glass included at $17.95; one of the most famous Jerez brandies, Cardenal Mendoza, in a handsome container at $37,00.

A bottle of Almavival 2004, with its bouquet of wild strawberries, chocolate and more, will remove $73 from your wallet or credit card…but dad’s worth it.

If you want an extravagant brindis, there is Dom Perignon 1991 with aromas of white flowers, tobacco and cinnamon at $138. What father could ask for more? And maybe there will be a sip left over.


The espresso kick at home

Coffee lovers who like their coffee strong are turning in increasing numbers to espresso. Smaller measure, bigger kick.

Now you have the chance to make the perfect “cuppa” at home or in the office. Lavazza Panama. has taken delivery of the new Espress Point Matinee 2007 a smaller version of the one you see in your favorite coffee shop. For information call 302-0806.


Tombolas a-plenty

It’s a good time for double, or even treble dipping in Multiplaza Pacifica. For every $20 you spend in any store, you will be entered in a tombola, with the chance of winning Caribbean or Mexico holiday cruises or an air and hotel package to Cartegena, Columbia.

All prizes come with an HSBC credit card with spending limits from $500 to $1500.

But then there are other prize opportunities. For example, if you happen to be shopping at Stevens and spend $30 on their "Code Blue" offerings, you will get another tombola ticket, for a chance to win a 42 inch plasma TV. You still qualify for the Plaza tombola.

And of course, if you are using a credit card tied to gifts or frequent flyer points, you win again.

Self-help
Meanwhile Florsheim has opened a men’s store in the plaza, and if you buy a pair of shoes, you can choose from a wallet or a belt valued at $29.95, a self-help Fathers Day Gift.


Car Fair in Albrook

If you are looking for a new or used car and don´t have time to visit all the car dealers of the city, then the Autofast Fair could be the answer to your prayers. The event is on until June 16 at Albrook Mall.

Distributors from Germany, Japan and France will show new and used cars and the buyers will have the opportunity to compare prices and obtain the best deals according to their circumstances.

Apart from showing a great variety of vehicles, the Autofast fair will offer the opportunity of on-the-spot financing.


Toning up Father´s Day with French Fragrance


Perfumes are the Saya´s passion and they know the
latest essences and the market trends.

There is good news for the fans of fine fragrances. French Fragrance a perfume shop that sells original products for all tastes and both sexes, at reasonable prices and with good offers has opened. The place is located in Calle F and Via Argentina (you must take the Restaurante El Prado´s road).

If you want to give your father something special you can choose from a variety of brands and gift packages that French Fragrances offers to its customers.

The perfume shop is located in an accessible area and with the personalized attention of its owners, the husband and wife team, Osman and Ana Saya (from Pakistan and Cuba respectively), you won´t have any problems in finding the right one. The personnel of this exclusive establishment speaks English.

Perfumes are the Saya´s passion and they know the latest essences and the market trends. If you do not know what to buy, they will carefully and patiently help you choose that special gift.

French Fragrances has all fashionable brands from Christian Dior, to Carolina Herrera even Givenchy, Polo, Issey Miyake and the sought after, Hugo Boss. Prices start from $20.00.

The gift packages that include cream and perfume cost between $25 to $70, depending on the brand, content and size. They also sell testers, an economical way to buy fragrances. They also sell cosmetics like Elizabeth Arden and Estée Lauder.



Best advice to exchange money, is
to go to an ATM machine and draw
direct from your home account.

A few pounds of grief

Visitors to Panama can sometimes run into problems trying to convert their own currency into US dollars.

Most banks won't make over- the-counter exchanges, and these are few currency exchange centers in the city.

One anguished visitor from Poland called to describe his attempt to change UK pounds.

According to online figures at the time, one English pound was worth 1.97 US dollars.

An exchange bureau offered him 1.50. He declined.

Best advice to those wishing to exchange, is to go to your nearest ATM machine and draw direct from your home account.

Some banks make no charge. Others deduct $5 for the service. Beats losing almost a third of the amount you want to change.

 
 
 

Panama’s oldest pictures?

By David Dell

The dictionary defines a picture as: "A representation on a flat surface." The Castillo petroglyph, in Nueva Suiza, Chiriqui, qualifies for that – and the carvings may also qualify as Panama’s oldest pictures.

Sometime, about 550 years ago, a rock carver stood in awe as the mighty Baru Volcano in Chiriqui started to blow its top. We can deduce exactly where he stood, and we know exactly what he depicted. Who he, or she was – of course we don’t know. This was a cataclysmic event and had to be recorded. They couldn’t paint a picture, so the observer did the next best thing – he or she took some rough tools and carved what was seen.


With my guide Gladys Castillo

I recently visited the oldest picture collection, in the small mountain town of Nueva Suiza, Chiriqui. To access this remarkable stone you literally have to take your life into your hands. It lies ten minutes north of Volcan down a rough country road. First you have to cross two bridges made of rusting tin and rotten wood – at least these can support a vehicle (just) Then the test of your metal really comes to the fore – you have to cross a 100 foot wire-stayed bridge that hangs precariously 20 feet over the rocks of the raging Chiriqui river.

My guide on this trip was local restaurateur Gladys Castillo. Her sister Olga owns the land where the rock is situated. Gladys nimbly crossed the bridge leaving me to contemplate the rotten and splintered boards that barely pass for the bridge deck.

This I thought was foolhardy and extremely dangerous. Trust me these boards could give out at any minute and result in a fall onto the boulders below which surely would break your legs, and most probably kill you. Still I thought, I am a journalist - we are brave, adventurous, and most of us are crazy as a fox. Gingerly I crossed the river in pursuit of the disappearing Gladys Castillo.


A close-up of part of the picture.

On the other side of the bridge I met Olga Castillo – the sister of Gladys. She led me through a gate and up to a corner of a field where a large rock sat next to the hedge. The rock was about twelve feet in length, six feet across and about eight feet high. It looked remarkably like a sacrificial stone I had found in Nicaragua.

On the North side were four spiral circles, some six inches in diameter and joined by a series of interconnecting straight lines. To the bottom left of this side were small round one inch diameter indentations. Another striking aspect was in the top right corner. Here there were several vertical striations emanating from the top of the rock. This gave me the clue that these were possibly artists renditions of lava flows.

This rock was not as high as the sacrificial stone I had seen In Nicaragua – that stone was just over four feet high, this rock was twice that height. (trying to perform un-elected surgery here would be very difficult)

The stone carver has made two eruption pictures, one, slightly smaller than the other. The larger carving, above and to the left, is possibly a stone recording of the main event. An explosion and eruption so huge that it wiped out the majority of the local population.

The rock is in effect a three dimensional copy of the Volcano. In ancient times lava would have flowed from the summit – hence the vertical striations at the top. The circles may well represent the pools of lava that gathered and then poured stream-like down the sides and finally the small holes at the bottom would represent the many springs that are still to be found all over this huge feature.

The mountain would have been both a taker of life with its scorching lava and also a provider of it with its streams of life sustaining water.


From a distance- just a rock.

According to National Geographic there was a huge earthquake and volcanic eruption in this area around the year 1450. The lake at the top of the Baru Volcano broke through the mountainside and lava and scalding water cascaded down.


An eruption recorded.

The "Castillo" stone is not in any guide book or on any tourist map, however it is accessible by those of the "crazy like a fox" persuasion. Contact Gladys Castillo at the Castillo Restaurant (on the Cerro Punta road) in Volcan, and she will happily direct you to her sisters property.

Bring a camera, a good pair of hiking boots, a two dollar donation, but leave your fear of heights and dangerous bridges behind.

For rock carving enthusiasts and amateur archeologists, a full collection of free pictures of this and other petroglyphs are available at: http://www.yourpanama.com/images/petroglyphs.

 
 
 

There are never "accidents" only collisions

In the last two issues of THE VISITOR Jorge del Rio of Ducruet Insurance has given advice on how to cover yourself for various kinds of risk, damage to your property, health, and car.

But what about when the worst happens and you finally get what some would say is the inevitable "ding"…..a car accident.

First off, don’t panic and be prepared for a long wait. If you are on your way to an appointment, be ready to call the person you were supposed to meet, and say you are waiting for the traffic police, They will understand that you will be there for an hour or more, and will probably suggest you re-schedule.

In the meantime, these are some of the procedures you will have to follow.

  • Do not move the car, no matter how loud the beeping horns of other vehicles and how much you are blocking traffic.
  • If anyone is injured call the emergency service indicated on the window sticker that you received from your insurer.
  • Call the traffic officer at 232-6845 or 232 5614. He will fill out an accident report form, and get you to write your own version of the events leading to the accident.
  • After calling the police, call the roadside assistance service shown on your policy and call your insurer. They will send a representative who will assess the damage, take photos and recommend a tow truck if necessary.
  • Keep a record of any witnesses and any other vehicles involved. Get names, addresses, phone and e-mail addresses. Describe the cars involved, color, make, registration number.
  • Note the weather conditions.
  • Never accept responsibility for an accident or make any deals with the other people involved until you have spoken to your insurance broker.
  • You will probably have to pay your deductible to the insurance company, which will be refunded after your case has been heard in a traffic court, if the court rules in your favor.
  • Don’t repair your vehicle until instructed by the insurance company.
  • If your car is stolen, the theft must be reported to the PTJ, and you will need to take with you the original (not a photocopy) of the Vehicle Property Registration.
 
 




Go Previous Page
 
Set Site As Home Page
Add Site To Favorites
Print This Page
Send Us An E-Mail
 
Go Top of Page
Copyright 2007©. All Rights Reserved.