Dining out with Bob Stiff

Restaurante Los Cedros

Drive up Via Argentina too quickly and you might miss the diminutive Restaurante Los Cedros. And that, would be a monumental mistake if you are, like me, a fan of Lebanese cuisine.

Situated in the same building as Manolo´s, but thousands of miles apart in the cuisine served, Los Cedros, or The Cedars, is a testament to what age-old recipes, fine ingredients, a demanding proprietor and a masterful chef can produce. While the menu offers sandwiches, soups and salads, it is with two major cuisines served, Mexican and Lebanese, that this establishment shines.

To start with, you MUST order Lebanese Lemonade. It comes in various fruit blends and other flavors and a perfect antidote to Panama´s steamy climate. The mint lemonade is, without doubt, my favorite.

Next up, you can choose one of many appetizers, among them many of Mexican origin as the owner, Rodicio Boulos, lived there for 25 years which also explains a rather extensive list of Mexican dishes. But it was the Lebanese food I was after...and it is served in abundance at Los Cedros, so go on an empty stomach.

The humus is made fresh and when scooped up in pieces of specially-made pita bread, is absolutely wonderful as was the custom-blended Lebanese Cheese you can only find at Los Cedros.

We sampled a plate of Vegetarian Nachos just to get a feel for the quality of the Mexican food. Based on this simple appetizer, this little restaurant is also the place to go when you need a “Mexican food fix” and don´t want to spend a lot of money.

We ordered the “Mesa Libanesa-Lebanese Table” as it seemed to offer a wide sampling of the various food served as well as the Lebanese Appetizer Plate. The menu states that this is a meal for two. Which is true...the part they leave out is that it could be a meal for four as easily.

I had an idea that we might have quite a meal in store for us when they decided to add another table to ours in order to hold all of the dishes.

We ate brochettes of various meats, steamed rice, falafel, fowl, a Half-Roasted Chicken on a bed of pita and glazed onions, surrounded by seasoned boiled potato chunks, and...well, the meal seemed to just go on and on.

No matter what dish we sampled, it was perfectly seasoned, perfectly prepared and delicious. The kitchen staff obviously takes a great deal of pride in what it serves. In fact, if you observe closely, you can see the chef´s head peering around the corner to see the diner´s reaction to what he has prepared. You take a bite of a tender chicken wrapped in fresh pita, seasoned with garlic sauce and pickled vegetable...your eyes close in delight... the chef smiles and disappears, his mission accomplished.

Los Cedros is small and unpretentious, the décor attractive but modest, the service friendly and attentive. But in the food served, it moves into the realm of fine Middle-Eastern dining. I found no fault with any dish and didn´t need to overlook an error or two here and there to reach the conclusion that Los Cedros is a tiny gem that deserves to become a popular destination for anyone who enjoys exceptional food served at moderate prices.

My next visit will be to sample the Mexican dishes offered. Plates of enchilada, fajitas and tacos being served to other patrons looked entirely too appetizing not to try at some future date. The same can be said for the huge steaks I observed being served to an adjoining table. The choices available in this tiny restaurant belie its size.

Whatever cuisine you decide to try, Lebanese or Mexican, you should definitively end your meal with a glass of Arab Tea. Fresh-brewed tea leaves flavored with cardamom and other spices is poured over fresh mint leaves and produces a sipping beverage that blends perfectly with the meal and is a fitting close to a hearty and enjoyable dining experience. Restaurant Los Cedros is a winner!