The fairy tale of the Palms Restaurant

Let’s pretend, shall we? Once upon a time a talented and creative French chef came to Panamá and met two young people who had opened a restaurant two years ago, but were now ready to take the next big leap from being a very good restaurant to what could be described as a “culinary destination” establishment. And let’s say that having already created one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the City, the youngsters invited the French chef to remake their menu to match their décor. What would be the result?

The answer is simple: Palms Restaurant, and the “fairy tale” above is exactly what owners Zena Sabagh and Rishi Mirvani did. Palms restaurant is the first to date to rise above this reviewer’s standard four-star rating.

Palms Restaurant’s decor is simple, defined and elegant. But also a relaxing environment for savoring Chef Stéphane Dias’ seemingly complicated culinary creations. I say “seemingly” because, in truth, their elegance lies in their simplicity. For example: Mesclun Salad: greens lightly splashed with a tart dressing, topped with sweet glazed walnuts, accompanied by a smoothly redolent goat cheese and one perfectly poached and grilled pear half. Simple… defined… yet elegant… .the combination of flavors unique and delicious. As was the Prawn Chowder With Fish and Seafood. While this dish is prepared in the kitchen, its "assembly" is done tableside. The bowl of chowder is topped by a slender glass panel that holds the whole cooked shrimps, grilled fish squares, chopped tomatoes and avocado, over the hot soup. All this is sliced and gently urged into the soup and gently mixed. If you think this too much showman-ship, you would be wrong. The ritualized presentation by an excellent service staff made it special and unique. My only suggestion…perhaps a hint of sweetness to boost the flavor just a notch…say ginger or a dash of sherry?

The next appetizer was Crispy Prawns with Ginger Soy Sauce; three whole shrimp, lightly coated in a thin, tempura-like batter, then flash fried. Delightfully crisp, with the rich sea-flavor of the fresh shrimp intact, the morsels of meat were perfectly countered by their ginger-based dipping sauce.

Last, but anything but least…. Marinated Octopus Grilled with Sweet Red Peppers and Capers. While admittedly not a great fan of octopus, this texturally rich dish could easily become my favorite. The octopus meat, deeply flavored by the marinade, was tender and featured a slight crunch from being grilled to perfection. The tart sweetness of the red peppers and tang of the capers added to this dish’s overall flavor.

While savoring wine from their discerning list, notes were compared and all received top marks. But it was with the main courses that Chef Dias’ mastery would truly come to light.

Beef Medallions In A Three Pepper Sauce featured slices of rare, as ordered, filet mignon topped with a coffee-flavored sauce, served with a mélange of al dente vegetables and creamy mashed potatoes. The filet was moist and deeply flavored, the sauce a perfect counterpoint. The only thing that would have made this excellent dish even better would be to substitute horseradish-infused mashed potatoes. That fiery condiment, tamed by the creamy potatoes, partners well with filet and adds a note of flavor excitement.

Another culinary delight seemed to float out of the kitchen on angels wings: Seafood And Saffron Risotto. Morsels of prawns, mussels, calamari and sea bass, nestled in a saffron and white wine cream risotto, was light, yet rich with myriad flavors. This risotto framed the seafood gently and was one of the highlights of an evening marked by culinary highlights.

Next was Duck In Two Textures, featuring Confit and Magret of duck with a “fruits of the forest sauce”. Confit de canard is preserved duck, Magret is the breast meat from a mallard or Barbary duck. The two meats are, however, texturally different, as are their flavors. The confit was fresh and rich, while the magret offered a dark, almost smoky flavor, offset by the tart sweetness of the warm fruit sauce.

Pondering the question of whether the kitchen could maintain its pace of excellence, the answer arrived in the form of Prawns Stuffed With Shrimp Mousse. The shrimps were topped with a pungent Thai Sauce that complimented, rather than dominated, the shrimps and their savory filling. What I remember most vividly, however, was the generous mound of coconut, pineapple and cilantro rice. Table conversation came to a stop with the first bite. You have to taste it to fully appreciate my devotion to this unique side-dish. (Despite thinly veiled hints that I could gladly indulge in it for breakfast I left, alas, empty handed).

The desserts kept the level of excellence high. I feel it important to state, that no meal at Palms Restaurant would be complete without Chocolate and Pecan Torte With Vanilla Ice Cream and Coffee Sauce. There are no words to describe it except, perhaps…”sigh”.

Palms Restaurant is a four and one-half star culinary oasis. Indulge yourself!