Delicias Mar del Sur

Nobody does it better than the Peruvians

While most countries of the world prepare seafood differently, few do it as wonderfully as Peru. And as luck would have it, Panamá has its own fine example of that specialty cuisine in Delicias Mar del Sur, a small, comfortable seafood restaurant in El Dorado.

After my party of four were greeted warmly by Sr. Isaias Canales, appetizers started arriving....and seemed to never stop. Causa de Camarón featured puréed shrimp seasoned with mayonaise, lemon, yellow and relleno peppers...an unusual and highly successful combination that had just a touch of spice but one that allowed the mellow shrimp flavor to shine nonetheless. Highly recommended! Papa a la Huancaina featured boiled potatoes topped with a delicious salsa made of white cheese blended with Peruvian yellow peppers, another winner. As was the soft and tender grilled Pulpo al Carbón...wonderfully marinated and grilled octopus...and the Pulpo al Olivo, octopus in a cold sauce, served with Kalamata olives...an unusual blend that worked quite well. The Ceviche Huancaina was, as the menu promised, "different and seansational", and easily one of the best ceviches I have eaten. The sole disappointment was Arañitas de Calamar, two versions of calamari, both of which was overcooked and quite tough because of it. This was, however, a very small disappointment when compared to those that preceeded it.

The first of the main dishes was Corvina Emperador, a large filet of corvina, perfectly cooked, surrounded by large grilled prawns wrapped in bacon. The sauce had a hint of brandy and accompanied the corvina nicely. As for the grilled, bacon-wrapped shrimp...let’s just say I could have made an entire meal of just those! Bacon and shrimp is not a combination I would have thought of...and I am glad someone did! Superlative!

Corvina Thermidor was an unusual tomato-based sauce filled with with a variety of seafood served in a huge lobster shell...more than enough for two and a hands-down favorite...until the Mar y Tierra, the Peruvian version of "Surf & Turf" arrived...and what an incredible version it was! Besides being the best dish of the evening, it was creatively presented. A large filete, cooked exactly as ordered, perched on four large chunks of boiled potato, surrounded by crisp yet tender langostinos and sauced with a unique and highly flavorful blend of ingredients that accented both meats perfectly.

It was apparent that a seasoned hand is at work in the kitchen and that, in all cases, the ingredients the chef is presented with are both fresh and of high quality.... desireable attributes in any restaurant, but especially so in seafood. A memorable meal on all accounts.

Desserts were quite good, although the Helado Frito was a standout.....I won’t even begin to describe the flavor and all the goodies that come dribbled over, under and around it. Just take my word...you want to try it!