Hard Rock Cafe up to standard

(Just don’t expect the food to rise to a level as high as the noise)

PANAMA'S BRANCH, at the Multicentro Mall, of this world-wide, world-famous chain is of course almost identical to its many other locations. Just don’t go expecting that the food quality will rise to a level as high as the noise level.

We started with a “Jumbo Combo” Platter ($14.99) that featured numerous appetizer offerings; Chicken Wings, Chicken Tenders, Santa Fe Spring Rolls, Potato Skins and Onion rings, served with a selection of dipping sauces. In hindsight, I would have skipped the combination platter. One appetizer that the chef wanted us to try was their “Krunchy Shrimps” in fried pasta vermicelli ($6.25), served with a spicy sweet sauce. Somewhat tasty, the shrimp flavor tended to get lost in the overabundance of fried pasta, while the sauce overwhelmed the dish entirely.

One dish that missed the mark entirely was “Langostinos Al Mole” ($16.50) which consisted of six medium-sized shrimp en brochette atop a pile of nachos. The shrimp were subdued in flavor and not at all complimented by the “classic nachos”. Nachos and shrimp? I fail to see the culinary connection.

Eagerly anticipated and then greatly enjoyed was the “Legendary Burger” ($11.50). This is the "Mother Of All Burgers". An enormous Black Angus hamburger patty was cooked exactly as ordered, topped with bacon, two slices of cheese and fried onion rings (not overcooked this time). It was delicious, but needed a hearty appetite.

“Blackened Chicken Pasta” ($8.75) scored well with my party of diners. The price certainly was reasonable given the abundance of tender and wonderfully seasoned chicken atop an ample serving of pasta and a creamy Alfredo sauce. Certainly comparable, and perhaps superior to similar dishes served at so-called Italian restaurants at a higher price.

Although unordered, a large Cobb Salad ($7.95) appeared and was welcome. While the classic Cobb has Bleu Cheese mixed IN the salad, this version had everything but that strongly flavored cheese and opted instead to serve a Bleu Cheese dressing on the side. Not a true Cobb, perhaps, but it was extremely good and with ample use of the dressing, you didn’t miss the actual cheese itself. This was the first Cobb I have found here that comes even close to the original and I highly recommend it to salad lovers.

The best dish of the evening had to be the Hickory Chicken & Ribs Combo ($18.50). A generous breast and leg of chicken was served with about 8 pork ribs....all perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned and delicious. The house fries, made fresh from whole potatoes, were crisp and the baked beans deeply seasoned with hickory and a sweet... molasses? While a bit pricy, it is a “must-have” meal for a BBQ meat lover.

Hard Rock Café is what it is... a large, world-wide chain that, on the whole, manages to keep its food quality and swift service on a par with its sister locations. The noise level is the same as well. At Hard Rock, you go to eat, not have a conversation. On the night we visited, a rather loud dispute between two waiters didn’t help matters.