Join the pilgrims on October 21 for the annual

Black Christ Festival

The Black Christ of Portobelo.

Every year thousands of believers approach the small town of Portobelo, near Colon, on the Caribbean coast on October 21, to pay tribute to the miraculous Black Christ (Cristo Negro) of Portobelo. He is the patron saint of the salsa singers and international personalities like Cheo Feliciano, Gilberto Santa Rosa and the late Celia Cruz who have visited at one point or another the church in which the statue is housed, "Iglesia de San Felipe".

Some of the devotees, wearing purple robes, walk the 53 miles from Panama City, others walk the last 22 miles from Sabanitas and many crawl the last mile on hands and knees to worship before "El Nazareno", one of the names given to the Black Christ by the locals. They all fulfilling the promises made to the saint, after he has granted them miracles.

Mass is called at 6:00 p.m. on October 21. At exactly 8:00 p.m., 80 able-bodied men carry the eight foot wooden statue of the Black Christ from the church to begin a four hour procession around the community in a carnival atmosphere.

Pilgrims at the annual festival of the Black Christ at Portobelo.

The bearers take three steps forward, two back, following the rhythm of a lively music. They have freshly shaved heads, wear purple robes and have bare feet. It is a distinct honor to be chosen to bear the Black Christ. At exactly midnight, the saint is returned to the church and his followers discard their robes.

Pilgrims at the annual festival of
the Black Christ at Portobelo.

The story of the Black Christ is surrounded by myth and legend, but some put the date of his arrival around 1658. One story says that the ship carrying the heavy statue in a wooden crate met a terrible storm that drove it back into the harbor. The ship attempted to leave five times, but every time a sudden and unexpected storm endangered the vessel and everyone aboard. On the final attempt, the crew jettisoned the crated Black Christ to lessen the weight and save their lives. Fishermen, amazed by the lack of respect shown by the sailors, carried the Black Christ to their church and gave it a place of honor.

This is a religious spectacle that must be seen at least once in a lifetime and at the same time you will discover the beautiful beaches of the Caribbean Coast. Portobelo is located 53 miles northeast of Panama City. To get there, drive 41 miles on the Trans-Isthmian highway towards Colon and then make a right turn at the town of Sabanitas. Buses to Colon also depart from the Gran Teminal of Transport, in Albrook. Accommodation can be found in and around the city of Colon.