Market – a new breed, a thoroughbred

"Market" is one of the new breed of restaurants where one really can’t define the cuisine…it is not nouvelle, nor fusion or any other sub-specialty, but is instead, a mixture of food you would like to enjoy on a daily basis if you were fortunate enough to have several talented chefs in your kitchen.

With a décor that is a cross between warehouse chic and elegant, depending upon what section you sit in, "Market" has become deservedly popular. The prices are nominal, the quality very high, and it is consistent, a feat many so-called first-tier restaurants cannot seem to achieve. The walls in the larger dining room consist of storage for an extremely large wine selection. It bears no resemblance to the adjacent smaller, more intimate and elegant room where we were ensconced.

We started with four appetizers; Langostino Cocktail ($14.50) while a bit pricey, featured five extremely large shrimps, cold, firm, and flavorful, with a true cocktail sauce featuring just a hint of fire. It was well worth it. Ceviche Corvina, ($5.50) could not have been any better…perfectly seasoned, and marinated. Asparagus Vinaigrette ($7.00) followed and while deliciously al denté, a touch more of the creamy sauce would have been appreciated. A smoothly delicious Paté ($5.50) closed our first course repast. Served with thin, crunchy crackers, it rivaled my favorite Marcel and Henri patés from San Francisco.

Our main ala carte courses began to arrive, starting with a quite large and perfectly prepared New York Steak ($22.50). Our resident meat eater indulged his passion in silence for a few moments, then declared that this was the best steak he had been served in Panamá…not a small compliment coming from a man who eats almost nothing but steak and has been in every steak restaurant of note in the city! The Salmon Grille ($12.50) featured a large filet expertly grilled, with just a hint of the grill permeating the flesh….a finely nuanced dish that allowed nothing to overpower the delicate flavor of the salmon. Kudos to the chef!

Pollo Asado ($9.50), was grilled to perfection, again with the crisp tips of the chicken carrying that grill flavor to the taste buds. The only slight disappointment was the Fish & Chips ($9.00). It was most decidedly not the fish & chips I was hoping for. Corvina is too soft and mild-flavored for fish and chips….the flesh must be more firm, possess more flavor, and most importantly, be able to hold up to a good flash fry in order to have the crisp battered exterior for which this dish is famous. And then to serve it without malt vinegar?!?!? Call it batter-fried corvina and french fries and you are right on target. But Fish & Chips? Never!

The side dishes we ordered were, without exception, excellent; Creamy Mashed Potatoes, Portobello Hash, Creamed Spinach and a wonderfully flavored Mac & Cheese. I should also mention we made it through two baskets of their wonderful house bread….if only it were available for sale by the loaf.

Desserts were also exceptional and in at least one case, unusual. Pavlova de Coco ($5.00) featured a slightly toasted meringue shell from which a rich cream poured forth. The final selection was Bread Pudding ($4.00)….an instant favorite among my party except for yours truly. I found the flavor of the rum a bit strong….but to err on the side of the majority, the bread pudding must be deemed a success.

Would I want to eat here again?. For "Market" my answer is a most definite "yes!".