High quality, low price

Bernard’s defies the norm at Enrique Malek Airport, David

By David Dell

Bernard Bahary and staff at his airport restaurant.

Normally classified as being low in quality and high in price, airports are the last place we look for fine dining. Chiriqui’s, Enrique Malek airport is the exception. When 62-year old, Iranian born restauranteur Bernard Bahary took over the defunct second floor eatery, few thought it would make an impact.

Bernard had been a popular chef in the Bocas Del Toro area for some years until his four pack a day smoking habit almost killed him. Miraculously, he survived intensive surgery and decided to do two things. First was to quit smoking - second was to move to David to be closer to a hospital.

Rave reviews
Thankfully for the people of David, quitting cooking was never a choice, so just over a month ago he opened "Bernard’s" restaurant. The odd person stopped for a snack before flying out and soon word of mouth advertising did the rest.

Extensive menu
Friends had given his food rave reviews, so when my wife and I landed in David after a trip to England, we decided to give Bernard's a try. Joined by two friends from Volcan, the four of us set out to see if the rumors were true. Bernard’s menu is extensive, running to twelve pages, and includes Thai, Mexican, Indian and Continental fare. I decided to opt for a curry chicken. Bernard is no wimp when it comes to spices – he adds them with passion and gusto. The result for me was a curry that would do justice to Panama City’s finest Indian restaurants.

The prices at Bernards are almost as enjoyable as the food. Beer is a respectable $1.50 and wine just $3.00 for a decent-sized glass. This was a wonderful change from my last airport stop in Atlanta, where they had the gall to charge me $10 for a tiny glass of Merlot. Bernard's is open from 6.30 in the morning until 6.00 at night. His breakfast menu includes Greek, Mexican or Thai omelets for $3.75. Traditional breakfast fare of eggs benedict, is just $4.00, and those wonderful waist-enlarging Belgian waffles are just $2.50.

Bernard Bahary took a plain, boring café and turned it into a dining experience. He changed the color scheme to a warm russet brown, added potted palms and plants and chose just the right music.

Savvy investor
Bernard is a savvy investor. At the moment, domestic airport traffic is steady but Bernard tells me that in February, the lengthened runway will be able to handle direct flights from Houston.