A certified
"destination restaurant"
A
‘destination restaurant’ is defined as "one with
a chef or cuisine so exceptional patrons are willing to travel to
a locale to experience it"…"where the food and service
combine to make an exceptional dining adventure"…and,
"because of the complexity of the food and the well-trained
staff, prices may be higher than usual." With that criteria
in mind, I may say, without a doubt, that "ten bistro"
is a certified destination restaurant.
Located
off the lobby of the elegant Hotel Deville, this fine restaurant
is clearly one of Panamá City’s culinary treasures.
Chef Fabien Migny’s signature is clearly on display in both
the haute cuisine served by an attentive and well-trained staff
and the sleek, elegantly understated decor of the dining room.
While
the extremely eclectic menu selections were tempting, my party surrendered
itself to Chef Migny’s suggestions. We started with an incredibly
light, yet deeply flavored Cream of Lentil Soup infused with shrimp
and slices of a wonderfully smoky French sausage ($8.50). Appetizers
consisted of Calamar Asado, carmelized rings of calamari stuffed
with a rich dressing ($8.50); Pan Grilled Scallops ($9.50) served
with herbed butter, garlic confit and dusted with parmesan, and
Tuna Sashimi ($8.50) in a jellied salsa. All were exceptional in
both flavor and presentation, especially the scallops...very succulent,
their flavor delightfully enhanced by the delicate application of
the other ingredients . If these dishes were anything to judge the
remainder of the meal by, we were in for a very special meal.
Bob Stiff (second, from left to right) and his friends.
And
we were.
My party
of four shared Grouper Filet ($10), a large fish filet, poached
in coconut milk and served with a light curry foam and steamed julienne
vegetables. The lightest hint of curry mingled with the coconut
milk flavor and produced a reduced sauce that was a perfect compliment
to the delicate, flaky fish. It was an exotic and highly successful
mingling of flavors. Next was a Grilled New York Steak ($22), served
with a basalmic vinegar reduction, sauteed asparagus, camelized
onions and mushrooms. The meat had a strong "steak flavor",
indicating a prime cut and was perfectly grilled. The vegetables
were delicious and mingled well with the flavor of the basalmic
vinegar.
The Grilled
Ribeye Steak ($25) was large, perfectly prepared and juicy. While
the menu stated it came with a Béarnaise sauce, it was overlooked
by the kitchen staff. Without a doubt this oversight would have
been instantly corrected, but the meat really didn’t need
any embellishment. It was perfect. The crisp potato construction,
however, that topped the slices of meat, while decorative, was a
bit overcooked and difficult to cut. Less frying time would easily
correct that.
The final
dish, Rack of Lamb ($29) was a classic example of saving the best
for last. I had dispaired of ever seeing lamb on a menu here and
was delighted by the extremely high quality served at "ten
bistro". Delicate, flavorful, extraordinary...all of these
words fit. Served with a mustard sauce, sauteed watercress, bacon
and sliced baby potatoes, it easily won the title "best dish
of the evening" by acclamation.
Of course,
it didn’t end there. A page of tempting desserts awaited our
selection. The most unusual was Chocolate Fondant with Raspberry
and Basil Ice Cream ($6.50). No, that is not a typo...it was basil
flavored ice cream. And surprisingly it was very good. The menu
said it was a ‘sorbet’, but the texture was definitely
creamy and the flavor pronounced, unlike a delicate ice. The Apple
Tartlette with Almond Cream ($6.50) was delicate, the pastry crust
flaky, and none of it too sweet.
The
Strawberry Tart ($6.50) consisted of sweetened fruit nestled in
a cream cheese filling and thin pastry crust. Good, but not outstanding.
Finally, the Nougat Glacer ($6.50), a pyramid of rich nougat surrounded
by a pond of rich strawberry sauce, was served and enjoyed.
I have
but one complaint, one shared by all of my party; the noise level.
ten bistro’s sleek, modern decor comes with a price....hard
surfaces that reflect rather than absorb noise. There were times
it was easier to hear the conversation at an adjacent table rather
than my own. The more difficult it is to hear, the louder ones voice
becomes. By the end of the evening, the packed dining room sounded
like a refined shouting match. Something needs to be done to correct
this as ten bistro and its delightful cuisine, like a fine jewel,
deserves only the finest of settings. For that reason only, it wasn’t
awarded the final half-star.
