A TODA VELA
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“A
lot more than tapas and fusion”
 "A
Toda Vela" can be reviewed quite simply; it is a jewel just
waiting to be discovered. Open only two months at this writing,
this little gem of a restaurant offers what was described as "tapas
y fusion", but it is more than that. Much more.
Chef
and owner, María Gabriela Masís, brings a knowing
touch to familiar ingredients and then turns them into miniature
masterpeices of flavor and texture.
Tucked
into a ground floor space of a residential building on Calle 47
in Bella Vista, this warm, sleekly modern restaurant offers a menu
that runs from the simple to the sublime.
Teased
by a delicious tapa dish of cubed tortilla a la Española,
we then moved on to Canapés de Salmón ($4.75), a plate
of wonderfully fresh, sashimi-like slices of salmón that
literally melted in your mouth. Chicken and Beef Brochettes/Pincho
de Pollo & Pincho de Filete ($4.60 and $5.00 respectively),
consisted of large, perfectly grilled chunks of marinated chicken
on one, and beef on the other, each interspersed with al dente vegetables
and placed atop delicious mini-salads. The chicken had a smoky,
rich flavor, while the beef was tender and juicy. Definitely a good
start.
The
house salads weren’t mentioned in the English language menu,
but do yourself a favor and order the Ensalada Japonesa ($9.25),
which is a delicately balanced mixture of tuna, calamari, cucumber,
lettuce & tomato, then tossed with wakame, a Japanese seaweed
that lifts what would ordinarily be a good salad into another category.
It was a table pleasing winner. Then, without warning, Chef Masís
upped the ante and began loading our already groaning table with
several large-portion meals. Langostinos Estilo Thai ($16.50) consisted
of three enormous prawns bathed in a gently curried sauce that delivered
a hint of heat while still remaining mild...a neat culinary trick.
Róbalo ($12.00) was a large portion of that flavorful fish
that had its gentle taste greatly enhanced by the basalmic vinegar
reduction that surrounded it. My only disappointment with that particular
dish was the scarcity of the brilliant sauce. What could have been
overpowering was, instead, rich and delicious. The Filete a la parrilla
con Salsa de pimienta verde/ Filete with a Green Pepper Sauce ($12.00)
was served as ordered, termino medio, and almost melted at the slightest
hint of the knife. That it was juicy, perfectly cooked and more
than an ample portion simply added to the pleasure only a truly
good cut of steak can bring. Other restaurants in Panamá
City who claim to serve great steaks could take a lesson from Chef
Masís as to point of purchase and style of preparation. As
a true steak lover, I felt the filete could survive on its own sans
the green pepper sauce. The sauce was good...but the steak was good
enough to stand on its own. Next time, I will order the sauce on
the side.ç
The restaurant’s chef, Maria Gabriela
Masís, is seen here in action at the kitchen.
Finally,
we tried one of the pasta dishes, Spaghetti con Lagonstinos ($12.50).
It turned out to be perfectly al dente pasta topped with an abundance
of a rich fresh tomato-based sauce brimming with succulent shrimp.
Next time I order this dish, I will ask the chef to toss the pasta
with olive oil or butter prior to being sauced so that a leisurely
dining pace will permit the strands of pasta to remain separate.
Air conditioning is not kind to cooked pasta and this dish deserves
to be enjoyed slowly.
The food
finally stopped appearing from the kitchen and we decided that dessert
was just too much of a good thing. Besides, it seems every restaurant
in tis city serves the same thing...cheesecake, tiramisu, flan,
etc. Don’t make this false assumption at A Toda Vela and definitely
DO order dessert. The Brownie with Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce topped
with Whipped Cream was warm, delicious and delightful. But it was
the Banana Flambé which stopped all table conversation while
we four diners shared this incredible creation....bananas sliced
lengthwise, gently sauteed, mixed with a banana liqueur and, I think,
ice cream....I honestly stopped taking notes at that point, so involved
was I with the flavor of this decadent creation.
A Toda
Vela made not one culinary misstep the entire evening. Combined
with a decor that is delightful, service that is prompt and attentive
and a wine list that is both extensive and affordable, I must ask;
what are you waiting for? A Toda Vela and Chef Masís deserve
both your patronage and praise.
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The Hilltop:
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Peaceful
living close to the action
The Villa Elena model.
Although
it is true that many expats are choosing to live, or purchase properties,
in secluded beach or mountain communities, many others prefer to
be close to the action and cosmopolitan living of Panama City.
For
them, there is The Hilltop, an exclusive project located in the
green suburb of Chapala, only 25 minutes from downtown Panama City.
This
gated community offers lots ranging in size from 1,100 square meters
(little over a quarter of an acre) to 1,500 square meters. Its spacious
houses (330 square meters) offer three bedrooms, two bathrooms,
high ceilings with gypsum trimmings and a U.S.-style kitchen. There
are five models to choose from, with prices (lot included) ranging
from US$174,450 to US$227,200.
The Gardenias model.
Chapala
is located in the district of Arraiján, Panama’s fastest-growing
suburban area west of the capital. It is linked to the metropolis
via the Bridge of the Americas and the Centennial bridge. The project
is only 15 minutes away from the city of La Chorrera, a town which
is increasing its offer of shopping and dining opportunities.
Beaches
and mountain resorts are less than an hour away.
For
more information, call: (507) 270-4032
or visit
www.qualityhomespanama.com
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La Casa de Lourdes
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A corner
of Tuscany in El Valle
Architecture which blends with the landscape.
The "boutique
movement" is gaining momentum within Panama's hotel industry
and has now reached El Valle, the home of La Casa de Lourdes, a
complex of two villas reminiscent of Tuscany's country homes.
Surrounded
by the lush vegetation of El Valle, La Casa de Lourdes was created
for those who seek perfect tranquility, with personalized attention.
La Casa
de Lourdes features two main components: the picturesque villas
and its gourmet, pool-side restaurant, owned and managed by Lourdes
Fábrega de Ward, the former proprietor of Panama City's Restaurante
Golosinas, Her brother, Pedro, is in charge of the hotel's day-to-day
operations.
Guests
of La Casa de Lourdes are entitled to a big breafkast every morning,
after which they can embark on a number of tours of attraction-rich
El Valle and its surroundings.
 Guests
of La Casa de Lourdes will enjoy complete relaxation and seclusion.
The main
suites at La Casa de Lourdes are large enough to provide intimacy
and relaxation for a family of five. Each bedroom is different and
they are named after the natural attractions of the area.
Known
for its year-round cool climate, eco-tourist activities and two
natural rarities (golden frogs and square trees), the town of El
Valle is a two-hour drive from Panama City.
Call
(507) 983-6450, e-mail: info@lacasadelourdes.com
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Christ Church by the Sea
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Colon’s
Historic Church and the St.Patrick Connection
By
Howard V. Walker
How
many churches have been built by a railroad company? Not too many,
I suspect. Panama’s notable example is in Colon, at the Canal’s
Atlantic terminus. Appropriately named Christ Church by the Sea,
it is at water’s edge, an aging spectator to the ever-changing
panorama of cargo-loaded, ocean-bound vessels en route to and from
Gatun’s busy locks.
Christ Church by the Sea –in desperate
need of restoration.
The life
and times of this 19th.century stone structure, in adapted Victorian
Gothic style, are firmly cemented into the history of Panama. Particularly
into those decades of the mid eighteen hundreds when American entrepreneurial
‘robber barons’ were aggressive competitors in the shipping
trade to Panama. William H. Aspinwall, one of the builders of Christ
Church, Iglesia Episcopal de Cristo, was a prominent member of this
group. Ranked among the richest men of his time,and aware of the
need for a trans-isthmian transit route, together with partners
Chauncey and Stephens, he formed the Panama Railroad Company. The
track was completed in 1855. The timing was perfect, and the Company
profited mightily from the Californian gold rush whose fortune seekers
eagerly sought this quick and safe way west from the eastern American
states. (Not surprising, considering that the overland cross-continent
journey in those early days of America’s growth took 4 to
6 months by wagon. A hazardous trip, it is estimated that only 10%
of adventurers reached the other side).
It is
recorded that Aspinwall was a pious man as well as a successful
financier, hence his desire to build a church in the city originally
named after him. He certainly would have had no difficulty in selecting
an architect. His son-in-law was famed designer James Renwick, married
to his daughter Anna Lloyd Aspinwall.
Colón famous gothic church
was a byproduct of the Panama Railroad.
La famosa iglesia gótica de Colón es consecuencia
de la construcción del Ferrocarril de Panama. |
Architect
Renwick’s career began at the top. Born into America’s
social and cultural upper class, when just 24 years old he won the
commission for New York’s Grace United Church. A huge achievement
for those days, it was destined to be ecclipsed 15 years later by
his selection as architect for the now internationally acclaimed
St. Patrick’s cathedral on New York’s 5th.Avenue. While
there does not appear to be certifiable accreditation, it seems
quite reasonable to assume that Renwick had his hand in the design
of Colon’s church, one so closely connected with his family.
Dating from 1862, it displays some of the stylistic virtuosity and
courage to experiment for which he was noted, for instance in the
‘modern’ treatment of its Gothic features.
Thanks
to the stone construction, Christ Church was one of the few buildings
to survive the disastrous fire of 1885 which tore through the city,
leaving only ashes in place of the poorly built wooden dwellings
in its wake. Today, its parishioners are still mostly of West Indian
origin, descendants of the 19th century inhabitants of those buildings,
workers who strove industriously to build the railroad and subsequent
canals.
The
writer is an English-Canadian, an architect retired from practice
in Canada and now living in Panama. |
Designated
as a national monument by INAC, Panama’s National Institute
of Culture, Christ Church by the Sea is in desperate need of repair
and restoration. Unfortunately, the honor of designation does not
bring with it the financial assistance necessary for the church’s
continuing existence. For that to be assured, business and private
individuals must again play their part, as they did at the church’s
birth dedicated to the Lord’s glory and in service to His
people. Action is required now to ensure that the 150th anniversary
in a few short years can be celebrated in a manner worthy of the
unique position it holds in Panama’s cultural and architectural
legacy.
Worship
services are in English and Spanish.
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San Francisco
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An iconic
neighborhood changes its look
A typical
traditional San Francisco dwelling. The operation of the former
golf club brought many wealthy residents to the area.
The tremendous
construction skyscraper boom in Panama City is also extending to neighborhoods
once considered quiet, residential suburbs. One of them is San Francisco,
where at least 50 glass-and-steel towers are rapidly replacing the
area's characteristic tiled-roofed white chalets.
One
of the capital's most affluent communities, San Francisco was originally
founded as a township for poor fishermen relocated by president Belisario
Porras during the development of the neighborhood of La Exposición
(downtown) in the early 1920's. Named San Francisco de La Caleta,
the town was soon engulfed by the growing city, and soon became a
"corregimiento" (administrative borough).
Construction boom. It seems as if they are building a skyscraper
on every corner of San Francisco. |
The establishment of the
city's first golf course in the area attracted many well-to-do residents,
who built spacious mansions along the green avenues of the new neighborhood:
El Golf. Middle class families also followed suit, especially along
Vía Porras and the southern part of the settlement.
Although
the highrise concrete jungle of Punta Paitilla is an official part
of San Francisco, it is often considered a separate district, developed
circa 1970.
The
rapid growth of the corregimiento of San Francisco relegated its original
dwellers to the settlement of Boca La Caja, on the beach –a
striking contrast with the highrises of the new Punta Pacifica development.
San
Francisco, thus, became an "a la mode" neighborhood –a
green city surrounded by the urban jungle. Its two main points of
reference are:
Parque
Omar and Atlapa Convention Center. Parque Omar is the largest park
in Panama City (apart from the Metropolitan Nature Park). It is the
favorite early-morning jogging venue for city residents. Expect to
find government figures and local celebrities excercising there. There
are games for children, picnic areas, trails, sports facilities and
an olympic-size swimming pool. The National Library of Panama is headquartered
at the park, which is the venue for special theater and musical performances,
especially during the dry season (January-April).
Parque Omar: a popular venue for jogging and events.
Parque
Omar was the city's golf course until the early 1970's. Although its
name has changed several times during the last 30 years, not a few
still refer to it as "El Club de Golf". Its main entrance
is on Vía Porras, not far from Atlapa Convention Center.
Atlapa
Convention Center was built in the mid-1970's and is the country's
main convention center. A large number of events take place there
throughut the year, ranging from major international trade shows to
classical concerts and pop music performances.
Over 50 new highrises are being built in San
Francisco. |
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Panama’s
Asian factor
Mr. Julio Yang, owner of a Chinese
restaurant in El Dorado. |
Panama’s
Chinese community is strong. The descendants of the first ‘coolies’
that arrived to work in the Panama Railroad are celebrating 150
years on the Isthmus this year with a wide range of activities.
Early
Chinese immigrants had it tough. Nostalgia, cultural barriers and
tropical disease decimated their numbers and, according to legend,
many of those not infected by malaria, typhoid or yellow fever,
committed suicide en masse. But many others lived on and found their
niche in Panamanian society, becoming prosperous businessmen, both
in Panama City and the interior provinces.
Thanks
to the large Chinese immigration, Panamanians learned to eat (and
love) rice, the country’s main staple. The wide variety of
dry goods, electronic gadgets and clothing sold on Avenida Central
is also attributed to their strong presence.
There
are two ‘Chinatowns’ in Panama City. Featuring two beautiful
entrances donated by the government of Taiwan, the first one opened
in the 1990’s in the neighborhood of Santa Ana, along Avenida
B, an old Chinese district. Reminiscent of south Asian markets,
the area is recommended for adventurers and everyone looking for
the ‘exotic’.
The
second Chinatown, an unofficial one, appeared abruptly in the last
decade in the trendy, upscale neighborhood of El Dorado, where banks,
video stores, clinics, restaurants and other businesses cater to
the area’s growing Asian community and its visitors.
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