Yes! you can find

Generally speaking, Panama City residents are open to all things American, especially when it comes to culinary matters. However, one particular U.S. staple, the bagel, was a rare commodity on the Isthmus until the arrival of New York City Bagels six months ago.

When John Hurst, proprietor of the business, first arrived in Panama 10 years ago as a Peace Corps volunteer, the first thing he noticed was the virtual absence of his favorite pastry in the Panamanian capital. The reason for this was primarily cultural. Although the large U.S.military establishment based near the Canal until 1999 enjoyed bagels, the majority of Panamanians virtually ignored the delicacy, perhaps because Panama’s large Jewish community is mainly Sephardic (Bagels were introduced into North America by the Askenazi Jewish community in the 1800’s).

Propietor John Hurst manning the counter.

Nevertheless, Hurt’s timing was perfect. Since the departure of the U.S.military forces, Panama City has become a destination for thousands of American and Canadian expats.

Located in El Cangrejo’s Plaza Einstein, across from the "Einstein’s head" monument, New York City bagels appeals to a young, international clientele, offering bagel sandwiches of all flavors, accompanied by tropical toppings, such as the maracuyá (passion fruit) cream. Coffee drinkers will also enjoy the venue, as it offers a large selection of gourmet flavors.

In the fashion of "lounge" establishments, New York City Bagels allows patrons to relax, check e-mail on their laptops and read a magazine on large, comfortable couches during the short wait for their meal. A great venue to meet friends from all over.

For more information, call tel.: 390-6050.

Bagels fresh from the oven.

Los Quetzales Lodge & Spa

Highest lodging in Panama is a unique retreat

A guide points out a Quetzal nest.

Tucked away in a highland cloud forest, Los Quetzales Lodge and Spa is ideal for those longing to retreat from the hustle and bustle of modern living. At 7260 feet above sea level (2,200 meters), the Preserve has the highest lodging facilities in the country and lies inside the primary rainforests of Volcan Baru National Park. The Volcan Baru Park is adjacent to the Parque Internacional la Amistad, which straddles Costa Rica and Panama. The 400 hectare preserve has been protected by the private efforts of its founders since 1970.

Esoteric treatment at the Spa.

It provides the only eco-vacation compound in Panama or Costa Rica with overnight accommodation inside a national park. The main hotel, in the town of Guadalupe, has a spa, hot tubs, gym, Internet cafe and WiFi. From the hotel guests can take a gentle 30 minute climb featuring mountain scenery, quilted with small farms and colorful gardens in the town of 400 inhabitants, and higher up, simple homes of the friendly Guaymi Indians.

A rare photo opportunity.

The Accommodations
The Lodge, in Guadalupe has 10 hotel rooms, 5 suites, a riverside duplex chalet, family room (6 beds) and two 9 bed dorms with hostel-type shared accommodation. The spacious hotel wood-paneled rooms feature private bath, hot water, room service and telephone service. Riverside cedar-walled suites are spacious, and have fireplaces, kitchenettes and some have balconies facing a lake with trout and ducks.

A friendlly humming bird will perch on your finger.

This birder group seems to have spotted something interesting.

Landmarks: Parque Porras

Belisario Porras: the creator of 20th-century Panama

When Panama became an independent republic in 1903, it was almost void of infrastructure. Traveling from Panama City to, say, Chiriquí was a two-day, dangerous affair on board frail sail boats and the majority of citizens had never seen a modern hospital. In other words, life hadn’t changed much since the colonial period.

Although the first governments invested greatly in education and infrastructure, virtually all historians agree that Panama entered into the 20th century after 1916, with the first term as president of Dr. Belisario Porras.

A man of liberal and progressive ideas, Porras was elected president three times during the first two decades of the republic. Thus, he was able to complete a long list of civil projects –something unusual for the average president during that time, due to the unstable nature of Isthmian politics in the early 20th century.

The establishment of the National Archives, the drafting of the country’s penal code, the construction of the first national railroad system in the province of Chiriquí and the construction of Santo Tomás Hospital, which was then Central America’s most modern medical facility, are only a few of the projects attributed to Porras. A firm believer in culture, science and international relations, Porras built a number of monuments honoring foreign governments and personalities, such as the Vasco Núñez de Balboa Park, on Avenida Balboa, which was erected with the sponsorship of King Alfonso XIII of Spain.

Porras was also the creator of the neighborhood of La Exposición, a planned "city" of government institutions, beautiful plazas and mansions which acted as the real capital of Panama during the first half of the 20th century. The neighborhood was built on the site of the great Exhibition of Panama – an international showcase of science, culture and technology organized by Porras between 1915-1916 with the sponsorship of foreign gover-nments.

Porras died in 1942 and the government of Panama soon erected a monument in his honor, located in a park between Avenida Cuba and Perú, in La Exposición. Parque Porras is now one of Panama City’s most recognizable landmarks, some-times used for political meetings and demonstrations.

Saltimbocca

a cause for much celebration among lovers of true Italian cuisine

While older, more familiar restaurants in Panamá City rest on their laurels, seemingly reluctant to change or experiment with their menus, new and more creative owners and chefs have rushed to fill the void. Saltimbocca is yet another in a series of newly-opened, fine dining establishments I have had the good fortune to review these last few months. And, in this instance, it should be the cause for much celebration among lovers of true Italian cuisine.

You won’t find bottled sauces, cans of tomatoes or boxed pasta here...in fact, no pre-prepared anything. What Saltimbocca offers is the opportunity for diners who care about what they eat to experience Italian food the way it should be prepared and served....sauces that coat the food, not the plate. Fresh pasta made right in the kitchen and custom-cut for each order. Fresh ingredients prepared by a chef totally devoted to his food and a wife equally devoted to making sure the dining room runs smoothly.

Chef Francesco Giannetto.

Our small party started with Fantasia de Crostini ($7.50), a varied selection of crostini with paté of olives and goat cheese, another with fresh chopped tomatoes and fresh oregano. The cool flavors of vegetable and cheese mixed with the warm toasted slices of bread were meltingly delicious. Mussels & Clam Stew ($7.90) offered tiny morsels of delicious seafood nestled in a fresh tomato sauce and just-chopped Italian basil.

Then, to refresh the palate between courses, a delicate sorbet was served, a treat I had not experienced at any other restaurant in Panamá City.

Suitably refreshed, we were presented with the best Carpaccio de Filetto Parmigiano ($7.90) it has ever been my privilege to enjoy. Tender, thinly sliced beef filet were perfectly seasoned, marinated in a delicate extra virgin olive oil, then topped with slivers of fresh parmesan cheese. The rich, almost tart flavor of the cheese was a perfect counterpoint to the delicacy of the meat, with hints of fresh basil lifting the flavor of both. A wonderful dish and highly recommended.

Saltimbocca, one of the latest restaurants to open in El Cangrejo on Calle Alberto Navarro.

The final appetizer we sampled was Sfincioni de Melanzane ($5.90), tender slices of baked eggplant topped with capers, olives and fontina cheese, then sprinkled with a fresh tomato sauce, basil and mint. It was a delicate, yet intensely flavored dish that ended with a subtle hint of the fresh herbs. Obviously, a fine hand is at work in the kitchen that can achieve this delicate, often difficult, balance of flavors.

We sampled two pasta dishes...Papardelle alla Lupara con Pargo e Melanzana and Tagliatelle Francesco ($10.90), both of which were remarkable.

Though nearing my culinary limit, this dish demanded that I remove any trace of the incredibly rich sauce with a slice of fresh bread...which I promptly did. And for those of you who have never sampled just made pasta, the flavor and density is so unmistakable you will instantly recognize the difference.

We finished what was already a bountiful feast with Filetei de Dentice al Zapore di Mare al Cartoccio ($17.60), red snapper filets, clams, mussels, jumbo shrimps and calamari, flavored with fresh herbs, then steamed in an aluminum pouch and served steaming hot. Though tasty, I found the steaming process toughened the shrimp and greatly exaggerated the flavor of the fresh herbs. Neither clam was open, though the mussel did offer its tiny morsel. Good, but not my favorite.

Saltimbocca Calle Alberto Navarro #4 El Cangrejo 390-9422 Rating: Poor Fair Good Very Good Excellent

To close, a truly delightful and delicious Panna Cotta ($5.50) was served as well as the chef’s own "Mistaken"Tiramisú ($5.50). Truth be told, I am not a great fan of Tiramisú, but this version, mistaken or not, was delectable.

I found the service to be attentive and non-instrusive...which is the way it is supposed to be. Obviously, effort has been made in both the kitchen and the dining room to ensure that your culinary experience is a memorable one. A full bar and a very good selection of wine are available.

In closing, the best way to sign off this review of the newest addition to Panamá City’s fine-dining scene is to simply state....viva Saltimbocca!