La Rioja restaurant

A culinary jewel, reminiscent
of Spain

La Rioja is a small jewel box of a restaurant nestled on Uruguay in Bella Vista, and if the restaurant itself is the box, then the cuisine served inside is its jewel. Spanish in flavor and decor, La Rioja nevertheless offers an international menu that is varied without being overwhelming, and served in a quiet and attractive atmosphere reminiscent of a small café in Madrid or Barcelona.

Urged by our host to be sure to try the Grilled Pulpo, we added that item to the list of Tapas the restaurant specializes in. Our host was right…you must try the pulpo. Even if you are not a fan of octopus, La Rioja’s version is tender and crunchy, flavorful and mild, and a lot of other contradictory descriptions…but bottom line, it is delicious. As were the various sausages and other tapas we sampled. Order a variety of tapas to get an idea of just how delicious they can be. But be sure to save room for the main courses…they are worth it. One word of warning: when the waiter tells you one of the sauces served with the tapas is picante…trust him. It is.

As my guests and I listened to the live Spanish guitarist, our main courses began to arrive. Paella ($8.95 per person) was a beautifully prepared and delicious version of that classic Spanish dish. Perfectly seasoned, filled with fresh seafood, tender rice and seasonings, it was a winner in all respects. And then it got even better when Chicken Breast with Fresh Mushrooms ($9.95) was served. A large, boneless chicken breast, swathed in a rich mushroom sauce filled with morsels of that same ingredient, was extremely good and, if the orders of this dish being served to other tables nearby was any indication, a highly popular La Rioja specialty. Perfectly cooked and seasoned, the tender white meat was succulent and beautifully paired with the delicious sauce.

Spanish Risotto ($9.50 per person) was an incredible culinary creation. Rich and creamy, brimming with perfectly seasoned seafood and cooked to smooth perfection, it is a signature dish worth a trip to La Rioja to enjoy. An excellent choice, very highly recommended, and one I look forward to trying again.

Just when we thought the kitchen had achieved and served its best efforts, the Mahi Mahi Stuffed With Fresh Shrimp ($10.50) arrived…a large tender fillet of fish stuffed, not filled, but stuffed to overflowing with al dente shrimp and sauced with a creamy concoction that perfectly complimented the seafood in every respect. A hint of seasonings in the sauce highlighted the flavors without dominating the primary ingredients, and the fish, its flesh firm yet tender, was a perfect flavor counterpoint to the briny shrimp. It was a table favorite.

Desserts are quite good and we enjoyed them, but it is the main courses that you will remember. My sincere congratulations to Rafael Zevallos of La Rioja and the chef for stressing quality and excellence...it shows in the dishes we enjoyed that evening.

Service is well informed and prompt, an extensive array of wines available, and the atmosphere conducive to enjoyable dining. My only problem was the presence of a large television, that bane of Panamanian restaurants, mounted on a wall, albeit its sound turned off, its silent visage daring you to ignore it.

But despite this single flaw, it is the food that will bring me back to La Rioja. I’ll just ask for a table without a view of the boob tube.