La Folie: haute cuisine in
a luxurious atmosphere

La Folie is located in Multiplaza, between Do It Center and El Paladar restaurant. The interior of the Colombian-owned restaurant is ultra-chic. Pools of water separate a raised dining area from the spacious bar and lounge. An extensive wine collection displayed behind glass walls gives lustre to the private dining room.

The “continental” menu covers all the bases from fresh fish to foie gras and suckling pig to carrot gazpacho. Waiters are trained in the art of formal service. The music, perhaps, is the only factor that does not harmonize with the otherwise perfect setting. But owners say that they will separate the bar from the dining area (with nothing less than a floor-to-ceiling waterfall) soon.

A master bartender creates specialty martinis ($7.50). Each one was perfect. The orchid martini tastes like a boquet of flowers and is garnished with a real edible orchid. The spicy one uses vodka infused with chili (aji chombo), producing a bit of a fire, which is quenched by a splash of orange juice. The basil martini has freshly mascerated basil leaves (just enough) and a citrus blend.

Our party began with the Carpaccio de pulpo – octopus carpaccio ($9.00). A treat for the eye just as much as it is the palate, the basil-cured octopus meat is thinly sliced, pressed and laid out perfectly on a large chilled plate. With just this first appetizer, we began to see Chef Cesar’s use of molecular gastronomy. In the center of the dish, what looks like a green egg yolk is actually a glucose capsule filled with a green olive emulsion. This technique is called a sphere, which should be burst in order to release the flavor and spread it about the dish.

Other original dishes that were also great for sharing were the Ensalada Caprese – Caprese salad ($9.00) and the Rollitos La Folie – La Folie rolls ($7.50). The Caprese salad contains the classic tomato, basil and mozzarella with olive oil, this time wrapped up in transparent raw dough and served over cool tomato puree, a demure garnish that set the stage for the pure and simplistic flavors found at La Folie. But the rolls were exciting. Full of flavor (and shrimp, chicken, cheese, corn, cilantro and spice), they are served with mango foam, another gastronomically haute tradition that is big in fancy eateries worldwide.

The Gazpacho de zanahoria – carrott gazpacho ($9.50) is a cold carrot soup, which means freshly prepared carrot juice. It was perfectly sweet. In the middle of the dish, layers of corvina sashimi were delicately flavored with lime peel. Corvina would not be my first fish of choice to eat raw, and though I had never seen it done before, it worked!

Ask for the mint jelly when ordering the Rack de cordero – rack of lamb ($33.00). The imported lamb is of high quality and is served over potato cubes. The mint foam brings the dish to an international level. Lomo de atun – tuna steak ($16.00) is also of superior quality, obviously imported. Chef Cesar allows the meat to stand on its own, without over- flavoring the high-grade cut. The accompanying homemade pasta with a pureed pistachio sauce, however, is packed with flavor.

Rib eye ($31.00) is a very flavorful, imported cut of beef, served with baby red potatoes, smashed and dressed with a white sauce. It was ordered medium by a diner who usually eats beef overcooked and the kitchen got it just right, no blood. Langostinos a la plancha – prawns grilled on a metal plate ($20.50) brought us eight fresh, large and flavorful prawns which had just the right amount of coarse salt. They were served above a bed of delicious three cheese risotto. The plate was garnished with asparagus, toasted almonds and a beef demiglaze that provided a tasty surf n turf contrast.

For dessert, more international culinary tricks. Espuma de mango con esferas de coco y jengibre – mango foam with coco ginger spheres ($6.00) yummm! The first taste is sweet, as if the mango were caramelized before becoming foam, followed by a creamy burst when the sphere breaks. Mousse de Bailey’s – Bailey’s mousse ($5.50) comes accompanied with coffee ice cream and the flavors mix to make one of the classic dessert combinations: Bailey’s and coffee!

La Folie is perfect for special occasions. How about happy hour (two for one!) from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. when all of the martinis and premium liquors are the perfect excuse to stop by the bar and get a peek at this gorgeous restaurant.