White water river adventures

By Jacob Ehrler

Adventure sportsman Javier Romero took his personal passion to some of the most challenging rivers in Panama back in 1994 when he started Aventuras Panama, the country’s leading tour operator for what he calls“Hardcore Adventure Seekers.” A true pioneer, Romero began his company back when there was not much of a tourism industry in his country, and he continues the spirit in his company today, forging ahead into previously undiscovered territories of Panama.

The Visitor joined up with Aventuras Panama for a trip out to the east of the province of Panama. Rio Mamoní was our destination, and though we were only an hour outside of Panama City, it felt worlds away from the metropolis. Our group changed from the tourism van to 4X4 vehicles to buzz up a newly improved road into the low mountains that divide the Kuna Yala Comarca with the province of Panama.

After a quick lesson in padding aboard our inflatable river canoes in a calm part of the river, we were heading down our first set of rapids, two paddlers per boat. Our guide told us, “The river is shallow right now because it is summer, so that means two things: the river is more gentle right now, but that also means more shallow spots, so watch for rocks. If you do hit one – and you will – lean into it and you will be pushed off by the force of the water.”

He was right, but when we spun off the first big rock that got in our way, we ended up navigating the rest of the gentle rapid backwards! Having another guide along to follow the group down the river last was certainly reassuring.

Along the first part of the river, the rapids were long and had a gentle decline so we could get a feel how to steer the boat downstream, nose first. There was also lots to see along the calm parts of the river while paddling along, “garzas” (white cranes) by the dozen put on a show for us, flying back and forth between trees that hang over the river.

Sheer adrenaline conquers your fears.

Lunch was well-earned. We pulled ashore at a sandy spot to stretch our legs and within a few minutes, we were treated to a sandwich buffet served on a makeshift table – an over-turned river raft. Fresh fruit, candy bars and water also kept the group occupied before returning to exchanging stories about the first leg of the trip and a swim in the river.

Our guide let us know that the next part of the trip would be the most exciting, and that we would have to row hard and apply what we had learned on the “baby rapids” so far. Before entering the class three rapids, our guide told us our plan of action, and then sent us through one raft at a time.“And if you fall out of the boat – and you might – take it easy. Go with the water and don’t fight it. You are all wearing life preservers for a reason,” he said.

The water whips and whirls the raft around, so keeping your path in mind is critical. Going the wrong side of a rock, you could be faced with a gnarly log or a skinny shoot between two rocks. A raging waterfall came next. I am thankful to report that we disembarked and portered our rafts over huge boulders our next rapid, a class four. Our guide was serious now, explaining that once we got around the curve, to row as hard as we could to get speed before going down the rapid, and to lean forward while we fell.

Sheer adrenaline conquered any fears as we surged out between two boulders and down the stream of whitewater. On the way down, we noticed a guide standing by on a boulder, ready to leap into the water if necessary. It was a reassuring sight. “Cheese!” he took our picture. We splashed into the pool below, landing in the boat and in one piece, all grins and hi-fives.

For the next rapid, we missed the turn and had no speed as we tipped nose-down over the surge. I did not even feel the boat leave me. My eyes were wide open and all I saw were white bubbles as I tried to determine which way was up. “Take it easy.” I remembered with an internal laugh. Seconds later I surfaced. Wiping water from our eyes, my raft-mate and I signaled to each other and the guide up that we were OK.

The rest of the river was calm and scenic. We even saw a sloth up in its tree as we approached the pick-up spot. The group was so tired from our day of rafting that most of us fell asleep on the short ride back to Panama City. The Rio Mamoní trip with Aventuras Panama was a great day-escape from the city and a thrilling adventure for those seeking a truly extreme time. Contact them at 260-0044 to ?nd out about all of their exciting destinations or visit www.aventuraspanama.com.