On the movie set

Diary of a Bond extra

By Irina Maximova

Ever wondered what it would be like to star in a moviefi A group of 750 residents and visitors to Panama City recently got an opportunity to appear in the latest James Bond fiick: "Quantum of Solace".

The auditions took place in Teatro la Quadra. Two months go by - no phone call. But I knew my part in the movie was secure. Doesn’t James need a beautiful Russian villainfi I guess not. I got a call to play the part of a partygoer. Works for me!

Instructions were simple: be available for four days of night shoots and bring a party outfit.

At 4:30 p.m. on Feb.18 we are gathered in the parking lot of Friday’s on the Causeway to take a shuttle bus to Casco Viejo and the old Union Club, the main shooting area. You could feel the excitement in the air. We were going to be stars!

Long lines formed to pick up the time cards and get outfits on and to get the hair and make up done. Seven hundred and fifty extras wanted a star treatment and they all received it with the help of twenty or so professionals.

The food provided a lot of discussions on the set. Some liked it, some didn’t. But the main source of discussion was coffee, or rather the lack of it. Of course it was a British production (but then there wasn’t any tea there either). It seems the star treatment stopped at the hair and make up department.

The night was beautiful. The weather was warm. We enjoyed talking and sharing stories under the starry sky, overlooking the sparkling ocean. That was until 10 p.m. when food and chats were no longer entertaining.

Finally we got called in to the set. No coffeefi No problem! Adrenaline is pumping just from entering the Union Club which had been transformed to a swanky night club. We are to play the role of rich partygoers who have been invited to attend a charity event to save the planet (it’s a James Bond movie).

The former Union Club in Casco Viejo was converted into a swanky
South American nightclub.

Once on the set, this is the extra’s moment. Stand out; be noticed so you are placed as close to the leading actors or the camera as possible. Daniel Craig appears. Everyone is playing cool, pretending not to notice him.

2 a.m. sleep takes priority over James Bond and even the possibility of becoming a star. Some extras were curled up sleeping on the fioor.

Suddenly we are rudely awakened by “take your positions please” from the director followed by the Spanish equivalent.“Rolling... Background (that’s our queue for “action”)... Action (now that’s the star’s cue)”. Smile, pretend like you are having fun at a luxurious party and pretend like you are talking. “Pretend like you are talking”fi This is Panama. We have things to discuss, gossip to spread. We are not going to pretend.

The director says “cut” and tries to explain that we should only be miming. People are still not following. Someone comes up with a Spanish version – “mímica”. Now we understand, but it’s still hard to follow.

4 a.m. We are finally released to go home. This gives us the final burst of energy to be off and running to the bus or, for those lucky enough to park in Casco Viejo, straight to the car. Funny thing, we all wanted to do it all over again the next day.

When not mingling with stars, Irina does web design and online marketing. She also manages PanamaSocialCalendar.com and organizes events such as Feng Shui Workshop, taking place on March 8. Contact Irina for more information at events@PanamaSocialCalendar or 6516-4027

Jungle swamps, cholera, suicide

The terrible toll of the Panama
Railroad

By Ted James

When passengers ride the modern Panama Canal Railway in comfortable observation coaches between Panama City and Colon, they are still enjoying almost the same sights and emotions as those who rode these rails 150 years ago.

The railroad came into being thanks to the United States Post Of?ce that in the middle of the 1800’s had to ?nd a more ef?cient way of getting growing mail volume from the US East Coast to California at the time of the gold rush. The Panama route was logical.

The North American Congress authorized contracts for two lines of mail steamships -- one from New York and New Orleans to Panama, and the other to connect on the west coast to California and Oregon. Mr. William H. Aspinwall secured the line on the Paci ?c side and Mr. George Law the line on the Atlantic side.

50 mile hike
Mail probably crossed the isthmus by mule, but when passengers from Eastern parts of the USA were ferried ashore from ships arriving at Fort San Lorenzo, at the mouth of the Chagres River on Panama’s Caribbean coast, a ?fty-mile hike through the jungle still awaited them to get to the their ship on the Paci?c.

A track trough the jungle.

A railroad was the obvious answer. William H. Aspinwall was a man of vision and together with his associates, John L. Stephens and Henry Chauncey, entered into a contract for the construction of an “Iron Road across the Isthmus of Panama”. After mapping and surveying the road, Aspinwall and his partners incorporated their undertaking under the name of the Panama Railroad Company and a formal contract was entered into with the Government of New Granada (Colombia, including the Isthmus of Panama) for the exclusive privilege of establishing“an iron railroad between the two oceans.”

The engineers hired for the construction of the road were Col. G. W. Totten and John C. Trautwine, and work on this gigantic undertaking was begun in May, 1850.

With a few Indians armed with machetes they began work at the Island of Manzanillo, which was renamed Aspinwall and is now known as Colon.

The experts of the time decided the road could be built in six months at a cost of one million dollars. True, there were swamps, but these could be ?lled. Crews of men could chop through the jungle and the numerous rivers and streams could be easily bridged. The cordillera rose to a mere 300 feet - no height to deter railroad men who were already eyeing the Rockies and Sierra Nevada. To lay several miles of rail a day was commonplace in the States, and so the estimated time and money seemed reasonable for this little bit of track which seemed to them scarcely more than a spur line.

Death count unknown
However, as work began across jungle swamps infested with snakes and mosquitos sickness took such a terrible toll that the men could work only one week out of three. How many died is unknown. The company kept no systematic records, and no body count, except for its white workers, who represented only a fraction of the total force employed over the ?ve years of construction. (In 1853, for example, of some 1,590 men on the payroll, 1,200 were black). However, the company’s repeated assertion that in fact fewer than a thousand had died was obviously absurd. A more reasonable estimate is six thousand, but it could well have been twice that. No one will ever know. They died of cholera, dysentery, fever, and smallpox -- all the scourges against which there were no known protections or any known cure in those days.

The railroad was essential for the
construction of the canal.

The plan to import a boatload of Chinese laborers was decided upon at one stage, and eight hundred eventually arrived. Their story is one of the many tragedies connected with Panama’s history.

Soon after their arrival they became morose with homesickness and fear. Added to their misery was the fact that because of an opium law of the State of Maine, which on some pretext had been enforced on the Isthmus, the use of opium was prohibited. They brooded wistfully for their native land; the promised land of their fanciful vision had proven too terrible to endure, and they committed suicide, choosing weird and unexpected ways. Some hung themselves with their queues, others cut their throats, and some paid their last money to their companions to shoot them. Other groups joined hands and walked into the sea and drowned stoically. Of the original 800, the small remaining group, numbering scarcely two hundred, sick in body and spirit, were sent by the engineers to Jamaica.

Irish navvies
The next importation of labor proved almost as unsuccessful. High wages lured a shipload of husky Irish immigrant “navvies” from Cork, Ireland, who had built canals and railroads all across England, but they “withered as cut plants in the sun.” Immediately upon arrival, they succumbed to the fatal fevers and were scarcely able to perform a day’s labor. The few survivors were shipped to New York where most died from diseases contracted in Panama.

The work was completed with laborers from Cartagena, Jamaica and East India.

Exploring the Andes:

Patra is almost arrested and falls in love with "polleras"

Call me naïve. Never had I heard of Los Andes, much less of the sprawling five-year-old, 58-store mall located there with it’s 500 parking spaces. I love surprises! As I exited my $2.50 cab ride with camera in hand I was “busted” immediately by a security guard who informed me that no photography was allowed. (Excuse me?) First stop the office of mall administrator, Byron Alexander, who I eventually persuaded to issue me a special permit informing security of my “official” mission.

If the big-gun mega stores are your cup of tea, this is the place for you! Here you can stroll about glancing up at rolling green hillsides and blue skies. Spotlessly clean, the mall is open 10 a.m. -10 p.m. DORIAN’S, EL TITAN, DO IT CENTER, COSTCO, ARROCHA, RODELAG, and HOMETEK occupy huge spaces in Los Andes Centro Commercial. They are interspersed with the smaller eclectic tiendas of all varieties, such as LOS TEIJIDOS, which economicallyfills the needs of the home sewing set.

Fabrics on sale.

Me? I gravitate to the unusual, in this case a U.S.A. POLO OUTLET. Be still my heart! Women’s boat-necked Tee’s bore price tags of $9.95. Men’s wear was more plentiful with deep price cuts including Polo jeans at 2/$25.00. Plaid, short-sleeved sport shirts were tagged at $15.95, and a special display yielded nice looking guys black casual footwear for $7.95. I walked away carrying a pair of women’s athletic shoes that lightened my wallet by $4.98!

WENDY’S and LEONARDO’S PIZZA feed the hungry. My advice as always when it comes to mall shopping is to arrive by midmorning when crowds are thin. Because
this is Panama my gringaness is totally accepted among the local population. I revel in this, one of the many, many reasons I have made this country my forever home. I have found my international comfort zone.

Los Andes is an outdoor mall.

My responsibility is to now become educated regarding the local culture. Ruben Castillero, the English speaking manager of LA CASA DE LA POLLERA, spent a
chunk of his valuable time filling me in on the fascinating aspects of making, owning, and caring for the traditional polleras. His store is the largest of its kind in Panama and people travel there from all over the country to purchase the necessary materials with which to construct their precious national costumes.

At La Casa de la Pollera.

Space prohibits me from sharing all I learned during my two hours with Ruben. Visit this shop and speak with him personally. Polleras can run into the thousands and thousands of dollars, but beginning April 5, for a total of $150 one can take ten classes at the store, eventually emerging with your own hand made pollera. All materials are included. Lessons are conducted in Spanish of course, but what a fabulous way to bond with Panama, become more proficient in the language, and make new friends in the process.

If you are driving to Los Andes Mall continue on through El Dorado on Tumba Muerto, exiting at the Tinajitas turn-off. The mall is near San Miguelito Hospital, so if you find yourself in Los Pueblos you have gone too far! New experiences are the stuff of which life is made, so . . . HAPPY SHOPPING.

Foot Falls... Watch your step!

Says Jack

Walking in Panama is not easy. You have to watch your step. That’s because, if a tourist, for example, is gazing up at an impressive city tower he might not notice a hole that is lurking right in the middle of an otherwise innocent looking sidewalk. Some imperfections in local crosswalks qualify as fissures. Strolling along, you have to keep your eye out for protruding pipes and rocks; chains and where chains used to be attached; grates, either loose or slippery; and numerous undulations.

Tourists from the U.S. of A., let’s say, may very well be used to more standard walkways.

However, one never sees Panamanians tripping on a crack or stubbing their toes on shifting concrete slabs that form the sidewalks. Even the ladies, in theirfive-inch high heels, seem to be able to avoid pratfalls. However, it’s not rare to watch a sneakershod tourist acting a bit more than surprised when he takes a giant step off a curb where he expected less than a two foot drop-off. I have a friend who fell into a manhole.

Steps and stairs need special attention. There’s always a “trick” step. You might start out climbing a staircase of eight-inch steps, but before you finish there will most probably be one six-inch rise; or a couple of nine-inchers; or one very tricky 8 1⁄2 -inch step.

Even out on an island like Barro Colorado, where Apolonio“Polo” Valdes has constructed a marvelous system of trails, with what look like railroad ties as ingenious steps up the steep jungle hills of the Smithsonian research site, visitors need to be alerted that the fauna there, for the most part, creep about on four legs,
rather than two.

A nice thing is that most Panamanians are polite and respectful of others. That is with the possible exception of dog owners. (There are also stray dogs.) The evidence that a canine has been in the area is often present right out in the open. It might be funny to observe someone who failed to take note, but it’s never fun to find
one’s self with a soiled flip flop.

That old motto, “Look before you leap,” certainly applies. However, we’re not talking about leaping anywhere (except maybe into the booming real estate market), we’re talking about following life’s path. While in Panama, you better watch your step.

Panama City Social Scene

Emily Hall, Brianna Meighan de Hanna and Jon Hanna at Alta Vita Spa for The Expat Party.

Patricia Castaño, Mariah Joseph, Matt Landing and Natalia Velasquez at Alta Vita Spa for The Expat Party.

All Honter, Laura Alexander and Glenn Dewwel at Rino’s for Expat Explorers.

NY Giant Jeremy Shockey, DJ Black and hotelier Justin Callen at the opening of Bar One.

Trudy Palmer, Steven James and Joyee Perrin at Rino’s for Expat Expolorers.

Ursula Kiener Ford and Steve Houston raffle a raw meal by Elizabeth Ihle at Alta Vita Spa for The Expat Party.

New immigration law explained

By: Steven Rich, Marketing Manager, Panama Offshore Legal Services

A new immigration law published in Panama’s Official Gazette (Gazeta Oficial) takes effect on August 26, 2008. The new law doesn’t change any of the existing immigration visa requirements but allows immigration officials to change the visa requirements anytime.

If foreigners apply for immigration visas prior to any new changes, they will be subject to the current laws and requirements.

Foreigners are recommended to apply before August 26.

Several important changes are included with this new law, such as the new National Service of Immigration replaces the current National Direction of Immigration with an advisory council consisting of nine government ministries.

This creates four distinct classifications for foreigners visiting Panama. The first classification is for non-Residents including tourists, passengers in transit to other countries, and maritime workers (ship employees who can visit for 5 days).

The second classification is for temporary residents reasons includes foreigners and their dependents who come to Panama for employment, educational, political, cultural, religious, humanitarian, or family reunification purposes for periods up to six years.

The third is for permanent residents including those here for economical and, investments, pensioners or retired persons. An initial two-year temporary residency
card will beß issued with application for longer stay thereafter.

Finally the forth classification covers refugees under government protection.

Further changes include the elimination of the cedula (local national ID card) replaced with a special foreigner ID card issued by the Electoral Tribunal rather than immigration. Aliens have one year to change their ID cards.

Foreigners must notify immigration of their physical residency address and any change of address within 30 days. Failure to do so will result in a $100 fine for the first offense and possible deportation for further violations.

There is also permanent residency forfeiture if the foreigner stays outside of Panama longer than 2 yearswithout prior approval by immigration.

You must maintain the visa requirements or lose it. For instance, the Self Economic Visa minimum $200,000 deposit in a Panama bank CD or as real property equity maintained throughout the visa period. You cannot mortgage your $200,000 equity
and still qualify for this visa.

Cancellation of visas by immigration can occur for any of the following reasons, fake marriages just to gain residency, any actions contrary to the national security, public order, morality or public health, or violating the rights or freedoms of individuals, permanent residents who stay outside of Panama longer than 2 years without prior authorization by immigration, engaging in activities incompatible with the limitations set forth for visa, temporary or permanent residency, making false statements, using forged or altered documents to immigration, offering bribes or gifts to any government officials to obtain visas or residency whether directly or through intermediaries, conviction of a crime or tax fraud, ceasing to perform the
original purposes for receiving visas or residency or any other grounds established by the law or immigration regulations.

The police and immigration officials have the right to stop any foreigner and ask for documentation of identity and immigration status and to arrest anyone not holding such documents.

Application fees increased to $250 from $100. There is also an $800 refundable deposit guaranteeing foreigner's return home upon denial of application for a visa or residency.

Immigration must decide within 60 days to approve or deny any applications. Automatic approval if no determination made by the 61st day.

Tourists applying for change of immigration status for different visa will have an automatic extension of up to 60 days for processing the application. Student Visas now approved by the Panama consulate closest to where the student lives.

Multiple Entry/Exit visas increased from 2 to 5 years.

Foreigners entering Panama must have return passage to their country of origin or residency instead of just any country. They must also show proof of financial solvency, "biometric data", passport& visa documents, and luggage available for inspection. This"biometric data" language started rumors of required fingerprinting
and optical scanning at ports of entry, which so far, is untrue.

This new law opens the doors for tracking aliens, speedier application processing, and a warning that stricter immigration visa and residency requirements are coming.

Letters to The Visitor