Tours and Places
Part II of
A two-day discovery of the Coclé province
By Howard Walker
The group enjoyed a tour of the Coclé
Province courtesy of Tropic Tours.
Recently, we spent two informative days in exploration of the many offerings of the Province of Coclé on a trip organized by Tropic Tours, in association with the Tourism Cluster for the Province. The furthest destination was not more than two hours from the capital, justifying the Cluster’s slogan: Coclé: so much, so close.
Last night the rain and mist began to descend as we left El Valle’s zoological park and drove along narrow, hedge-bordered lanes to Los Mandarinos Boutique Hotel and Spa for our overnight lodging. This elegant hotel is five years old and built of stone and stucco in Tuscan style and set in the verdant foothills of the famed Cerro Gaital. Six two-story tower-like structures accommodate 31 large, beautifully-appointed guest rooms There is an executive meeting salon, spa, pool and children’s play area. O’Pedro’s Irish Sports Bar introduces an unexpected shamrock touch. In summary, the total ambiance of hotel and location exudes relaxation and ease to make this a delightful and inviting get-away.
We dined at Hotel Campestre. Originally dating from the twenties, it is well known among visitors to El Valle. Here in its forest preserve one encounters the golden frogs and square trees. It is undergoing a radical transformation and modernization. A new wing is already completed and open for guests, and a total of 69 guest rooms is planned.
After dessert, it is rendezvous time with guides Mario and Maria for a nocturnal nature walk to experience El Valle’s abundant and rich biological diversity. Along our path, flash lights reveal nature’s night-time world of insect, frog, sleeping bird, butterfly, pupa and more. A porcupine scurries up a tree trunk and disappears along a branch into the mysterious darkness of the high, forest canopy. Everything is moist, and dripping; creation manifest, silently pulsing with life. We return exhilarated and in awe.
After a good night’s rest and breakfast on the hotel’s dining terrace our highly qualified ecologist guides take us to see the ‘arboles cuadrados’ (square trees) and then by bus we move across town to the informative ‘serpentarium’ (snake exhibit). A visit to the Canopy Lodge follows. The four balcony-connected buildings comprising this crisply designed and elegantly detailed complex discretely meld into a beautiful tropical hillside garden. Guest accommodation is limited to 12 rooms. The dining room, lounge and extensive natural history library are in an open plan; flashes of color catch the eye as birds fly in and out. Understandably, testimonials attest to the lodge’s sophisticated standards and appeal, especially for the national and international birding circuit. They also offer a canopy tour.
See Panama’s national flower, the “Flower of the Holy Spirit” on a tour of Coclé.
The next stop is on the Pacific Coast to the construction site of Nikki Beach Resort, the well-known, high-end international hotel brand being introduced to Panama. Nikki Beach will offer its distinctive 5 star luxury service in its more than 200 guest rooms. In addition, a 110,000 square foot Beach Club will provide the ‘Servicios Ultra VIP’, familiar to Nikki Beach clientèle around the world. Construction is scheduled for completion this December.
The neighboring Playa Blanca Resort is already well established and quite popular. This is a place with something for everyone – and everyone seems to be here! The pools, sports facilities, bars, restaurants and live shows appeal to guests of all ages. They are attracted no doubt by the ‘all inclusive’ packages offered by the 219-room hotel. Our buffet-style lunch in the crowded open air restaurant is greatly enjoyed. Again, the variety and quantity of dishes, comprising salads, hot plates and desserts aimed to please every taste and surely succeeded.
Reflective of the tourism development ‘boom’ on the Panama’s Pacific coast, the above major resorts will soon be joined by the hotel chain Breezes, well known to travelers in the Caribbean. Its construction is nearing completion and is part of the resort development called Proyecto Bijao. Formal in design, its 7-story wings, containing over 300 rooms and amenities, dominate a spacious landscaped terrace whose circular pools cascade down to the edge of the cliff overlooking the ocean. There will be beach access.
Earlier we had visited Pipa’s restaurant, quite close in distance but certainly far removed in character from the major resorts just mentioned. This small, laid back ocean-front gathering place is almost hidden in a village of modest fishermen’s houses, but has been discovered by tourists including guests from Decameron, who make the trip from about 2 kilometers up the road. All come to enjoy ‘the most delicious seafood along the coast’ (Frommers), beach parties and, just possibly, its tempting Ron Abuelos. The Farallon Rock is offshore and can be visited on the restaurant’s shrimp boat tours.
Now, it is time to return to the capital. We have experienced a sampling of places to stay/or visit in a province which provides richly diverse opportunities for tourist enjoyment and satisfaction. Without a doubt, Coclé has ‘so much, so close’. Be sure to check out Coclé Tourist Cluster or our hosts Tropic Tours for more lodging information and tours.
Eco-resort in Chiriquí
Rancho de Caldera offers superb location & cuisine
Proprietor Gina Cronin hughs one of the
hotel’s Labradors who will take you
for a mountain walk.
Open since the beginning of this year and doing well is the eco-resort Rancho de Caldera, set in a magnificent location in the Chiriqui Highlands.
Owner and creator of this hotel, a worthy addition to the growing lodging offerings of the province, is Gina Cronin, formerly of Cleveland, Ohio. A financial consultant in her former life, she decided four years ago to swap freezing winters and city life for the peace and quiet of Panama’s mountains and embark on an adventure into entrepreneurship. She bought a 29 hectare farm at the village of Caldera, 25 minutes out of Boquete, and set out to build her hotel.
Perched on the side of a mountain, overlooking a valley and a vast panoply of mountains beyond, Rancho de Caldera has nine exquisite and private rooms in cottages along the hillside, and two discount rooms.
The restaurant, Madre Tierra, alongside a pool whose infinity edge blends with distant peaks, is the social focal point of the hotel.
Madre Tierra is also a significant addition to the culinary offering of the Boquete district and is attracting a growing number of clients for lunch or dinner from Thursday to Monday. It’s not just the magnificent view from the restaurant. People come for the creations of chef Craig Miller who specializes in the ethnic flavors of Thailand, India, New Mexico, and Italy. Lunch offers a set menu but dinner is a “prix fixe” with a different specialty every night. Both Gina and Craig stress that as much as possible, foods are local.
The infinity pool blends with distant peaks.
“We believe that food should not travel far from its source”, said Gina, “and with effort and determination most of what we need can be purchased locally or raised ourselves.”. On her website she philosophizes about food – “food is communion, for it is around a table of inspiring scents and flavors that ideas are born, friendships are galvanized and communities built.”
Madre Tierra is an alcohol and soda-free restaurant and a selection of “ creative beverages” is offered using local fruits.
Chef Craig Miller’s ethnic flavors attrack
an enthusiastic clientele.
Apart from the activities and sightseeing offered in the Boquete area, Rancho de Caldera offers a couple of special attractions. The hotel invites you to be taken for a walk by the dogs, big friendly Labs. You just tell them where you want to go. There are also horses, but they are not so cooperative – until you turn back for home. A very handy attraction is the Caldera hot springs. Contact: 772-8040, info@ranchodecaldera.com